Story:
In June 2010 10 guys set out with 3 guides from SWS Mountain Guides to climb the Hotlum-Bolam route of Mt. Shasta. Some of us had a little mountaineering experience others had none but did bring considerable backpacking experience. We made the climb over 3 days, hiking in from the North Gate Trailhead to about 10,000 feet to set up base camp on day one. On Day 2 we made an alpine start at about 2:45am. At about 11,500 feet we roped up into 2 teams of 5, 4 climbers and one guide each. At this point, 2 of our crew made the decision to turn back along with one of the guides. While it was still early in the day, this was essentially the point of no return and they made wise decisions to attempt the mountain another day. We then began the arduous climb between the Hotlum and Bolam glaciers on very good snow with sure footing. However it was a very steep climb. We climbed and traverse one snow field moving up and a little eastward to gain the bottom of what the guides referred to as the "Ramp." The Ramp sits below and west of the Hotlum headwall. At the top of the Ramp we took a good 20 minute break while some of us struggled a bit adjusting to the altitude. We pushed up another snowfield gaining a rockfield just to the east of the head of the Bolam glacier and the Shark's Fin. Took a short break here and then moved along the "Crux" and across the top of the Bolam. At this point, the winds we had been struggling agains all day hit us in full force. The weather was perfect, no clouds, temperatures just above freezing (well below with the wind chill however) and clear. However the wind steadily increased to what the National Weather Service would later report as sustained 40MPH speeds. The gusts (which we estimate at upwards of 60MPH) began to regularly knock both rope teams to the ground requiring multiple self-arrests. At, or just above, 14,000' and just below the North Summit, the decision was made to turn around. The guides informed us that the winds would only increase when we crossed to the south side of the mountain to gain the summit and we were already being consistently knocked down. While this was a bit of a defeat, no one on the team regretted the decision and we all relished the true "adventure" of our experience. The guides assured us that if the winds were just a bit more calm we would have easily summitted. An amazing trip and well worth the effort and challenge!
In June 2010 10 guys set out with 3 guides from SWS Mountain Guides to climb the Hotlum-Bolam route of Mt. Shasta. Some of us had a little mountaineering experience others had none but did bring considerable backpacking experience. We made the climb over 3 days, hiking in from the North Gate Trailhead to about 10,000 feet to set up base camp on day one. On Day 2 we made an alpine start at about 2:45am. At about 11,500 feet we roped up into 2 teams of 5, 4 climbers and one guide each. At this point, 2 of our crew made the decision to turn back along with one of the guides. While it was still early in the day, this was essentially the point of no return and they made wise decisions to attempt the mountain another day. We then began the arduous climb between the Hotlum and Bolam glaciers on very good snow with sure footing. However it was a very steep climb. We climbed and traverse one snow field moving up and a little eastward to gain the bottom of what the guides referred to as the "Ramp." The Ramp sits below and west of the Hotlum headwall. At the top of the Ramp we took a good 20 minute break while some of us struggled a bit adjusting to the altitude. We pushed up another snowfield gaining a rockfield just to the east of the head of the Bolam glacier and the Shark's Fin. Took a short break here and then moved along the "Crux" and across the top of the Bolam. At this point, the winds we had been struggling agains all day hit us in full force. The weather was perfect, no clouds, temperatures just above freezing (well below with the wind chill however) and clear. However the wind steadily increased to what the National Weather Service would later report as sustained 40MPH speeds. The gusts (which we estimate at upwards of 60MPH) began to regularly knock both rope teams to the ground requiring multiple self-arrests. At, or just above, 14,000' and just below the North Summit, the decision was made to turn around. The guides informed us that the winds would only increase when we crossed to the south side of the mountain to gain the summit and we were already being consistently knocked down. While this was a bit of a defeat, no one on the team regretted the decision and we all relished the true "adventure" of our experience. The guides assured us that if the winds were just a bit more calm we would have easily summitted. An amazing trip and well worth the effort and challenge!
Comments (2)
Great report! I had actually considered going on this same trip with SMGs, what a small world. Sorry the weather kept you from getting to the top. Hope it works out next time!
by AllenRbrts on Jul 26, 2010
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