Story:
via Stone Door (SD), Big Creek Gulf (BCG), Ranger Falls (RF), Greeter Falls (GF), and Big Creek Rim (BCR) trails
A coworker (who is a very accomplished hiker) from an out-of-town office was visiting for the week, and we decided to take a day off for some hiking. We selected the Savage Gulf, as it is one of the most beautiful and rugged parts of Middle Tennessee. We arrived not too long after the park opened at dawn, and didn't beat the park closing at dusk by much. I should subtitle this hike "How to Have a Really Long Day Wearing Out Your Feet and Treating Your Eyes."
We started at the Stone Door ranger station on the SD trail. The trail is paved at the start up to a small lookout over the Gulf. The trail turns to dirt and rock until the Great Stone Door, a natural break in the rim of the Savage Gulf. The top of Stone Door is very exposed, giving stunning views of the Gulf below. It's high enough to impose a bit of caution. The rock area at the top is good for breaks and picnics.
BCG descends down the steps of Stone Door before a steep section of rugged switchbacks dropping into the Savage Gulf. Large boulders are numerous, and it is a difficult descent. The trail levels somewhat near the bottom of the gulf.
We followed RF to the falls, a 0.4 mile each way spur trail. Ranger Falls is interesting because it disappears into an underground pool. The falls had a moderate flow, not nearly as much as during the spring but enough to be impressive. We were able to walk behind the falls, and spent a while exploring the area.
BCG ascends on the western side much more gradually than its eastern descent. It is a long way out of the Savage Gulf but a steady pace helps, and we hit the junction of BCG, BCR, and GF sooner than I thought. The highest part of the ascent has noticeably rockier walls than the lowest part. It's a workout for sure, but not a nonstop huff-and-puff that a steeper ascent would be. It's definitely easier to descend BCG in on the eastern portion and ascend via the western trail than vice versa.
The west part of GF follows the rim of the Gulf to Boardtree Falls. A suspension bridge crosses just above the falls. After that, the trail skirts just below the rim, with considerable ups-and-downs and scrambling over rocks. Lower Greeter Falls is accessible via staircases, and a large pool entices wading in warmer weather. Upper Greeter Falls is shorter but wider than the lower falls.
We backtracked GF to BCR and followed it around the rim. Another option is to follow Alum Gap (which makes a good combination with BCR if you don't want to descend into the Savage Gulf), but it is less scenic than the views from the rim.
Near Alum Gap Campground, we spotted something I have never seen before: rangers leaf-blowing the trail clean! They told us that if it's not blown off late in the fall, it becomes so thickly-matted over the winter that the trail is hard to discern.
BCR continually weaves its way around the rim, sometimes curving to the north to go around hollows and gullies. It's not a flat trail by any means. At this point in the day, my pace had definitely slowed!
BCR meets BCG and SD at the Stone Door, and then follows SD back to the ranger station for a gentle end to a long, demanding day.
This hike has my highest recommendation, whether you do just a portion or its entirety. There are a variety of other great trails in Savage Gulf, and when South Cumberland is considered as a whole it has some of the best hiking in the state. Stone Door is one of my favorite hikes anywhere, and should be at the top of anyone's list for best hikes in Middle Tennessee.
via Stone Door (SD), Big Creek Gulf (BCG), Ranger Falls (RF), Greeter Falls (GF), and Big Creek Rim (BCR) trails
A coworker (who is a very accomplished hiker) from an out-of-town office was visiting for the week, and we decided to take a day off for some hiking. We selected the Savage Gulf, as it is one of the most beautiful and rugged parts of Middle Tennessee. We arrived not too long after the park opened at dawn, and didn't beat the park closing at dusk by much. I should subtitle this hike "How to Have a Really Long Day Wearing Out Your Feet and Treating Your Eyes."
We started at the Stone Door ranger station on the SD trail. The trail is paved at the start up to a small lookout over the Gulf. The trail turns to dirt and rock until the Great Stone Door, a natural break in the rim of the Savage Gulf. The top of Stone Door is very exposed, giving stunning views of the Gulf below. It's high enough to impose a bit of caution. The rock area at the top is good for breaks and picnics.
BCG descends down the steps of Stone Door before a steep section of rugged switchbacks dropping into the Savage Gulf. Large boulders are numerous, and it is a difficult descent. The trail levels somewhat near the bottom of the gulf.
We followed RF to the falls, a 0.4 mile each way spur trail. Ranger Falls is interesting because it disappears into an underground pool. The falls had a moderate flow, not nearly as much as during the spring but enough to be impressive. We were able to walk behind the falls, and spent a while exploring the area.
BCG ascends on the western side much more gradually than its eastern descent. It is a long way out of the Savage Gulf but a steady pace helps, and we hit the junction of BCG, BCR, and GF sooner than I thought. The highest part of the ascent has noticeably rockier walls than the lowest part. It's a workout for sure, but not a nonstop huff-and-puff that a steeper ascent would be. It's definitely easier to descend BCG in on the eastern portion and ascend via the western trail than vice versa.
The west part of GF follows the rim of the Gulf to Boardtree Falls. A suspension bridge crosses just above the falls. After that, the trail skirts just below the rim, with considerable ups-and-downs and scrambling over rocks. Lower Greeter Falls is accessible via staircases, and a large pool entices wading in warmer weather. Upper Greeter Falls is shorter but wider than the lower falls.
We backtracked GF to BCR and followed it around the rim. Another option is to follow Alum Gap (which makes a good combination with BCR if you don't want to descend into the Savage Gulf), but it is less scenic than the views from the rim.
Near Alum Gap Campground, we spotted something I have never seen before: rangers leaf-blowing the trail clean! They told us that if it's not blown off late in the fall, it becomes so thickly-matted over the winter that the trail is hard to discern.
BCR continually weaves its way around the rim, sometimes curving to the north to go around hollows and gullies. It's not a flat trail by any means. At this point in the day, my pace had definitely slowed!
BCR meets BCG and SD at the Stone Door, and then follows SD back to the ranger station for a gentle end to a long, demanding day.
This hike has my highest recommendation, whether you do just a portion or its entirety. There are a variety of other great trails in Savage Gulf, and when South Cumberland is considered as a whole it has some of the best hiking in the state. Stone Door is one of my favorite hikes anywhere, and should be at the top of anyone's list for best hikes in Middle Tennessee.
Tips:
Be prepared for the physical rigors of this trail. The descent into the Savage Gulf is very rugged, and the ascent is strenuous. Past Boardtree Falls, the Greeter Falls trail is over broken rock areas. A hiking stick is a huge help. Bring sufficient water and food. Check time carefully, as the park closes at dusk. Maps are available at the beginning of the trail. Make sure you sign the hike log, and sign out when done.
Be prepared for the physical rigors of this trail. The descent into the Savage Gulf is very rugged, and the ascent is strenuous. Past Boardtree Falls, the Greeter Falls trail is over broken rock areas. A hiking stick is a huge help. Bring sufficient water and food. Check time carefully, as the park closes at dusk. Maps are available at the beginning of the trail. Make sure you sign the hike log, and sign out when done.
Tags:
tennessee, Savage Gulf, South Cumberland, Stone Door, Greeter Falls, Ranger Falls, Big Creek Rim, Big Creek Gulf
tennessee, Savage Gulf, South Cumberland, Stone Door, Greeter Falls, Ranger Falls, Big Creek Rim, Big Creek Gulf
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