Tsukiji to Ginza: Markets, Shopping and Culture

Tsukiji Station on the Tokyo Metro Subway Hibiya Line is the jump-off point for the tour. Take exit 1 from underground platform. Note, the station has restrooms and an ATM at exit 2. The Tokyo Metro authority has an extensive website in English that offers maps, timetables and travel advise, and is worth checking out if unfamiliar with the Tokyo subway system; http://www.tokyometro.jp/en/index.html

One of the more architecturally unique temples in Tokyo, the expansive Honganji Temple is located just across from the Tsukiji Market. The temple is designed with an Indian motif, although the architect, Ito Chuta, was a professor of architecture at Tokyo University. The current building was completed in 1934 and replaced an earlier temple that burned in the great Kanto earthquake in 1923. Although hard to believe now, the temple (and surrounding buildings, including the market) occupies land reclaimed from Tokyo Bay, which is now more than 10 kilometers distant to the east.

The temple was originally located closer to Asakusa, but burned in one of early Edo's many fires in 1657. Denied permission by the feudal government to rebuild on the original site, the temple relocated to its current location, then considered the outskirts of the city. The temple's congregation helped reclaim the land the temple now sits atop.

Honganji is part of the Jodo Shinshu Buddisht sect, which has its main temple in Kyoto. Inside the temple are alters and offerings to Buddha, with elaborate gold decoration.

Worship services are held every day at 7am and 4pm. The dharma gives lectures in English every third Saturday at 5:30pm. The temple also has a restaurant, a wedding hall and hosts a number of private events.

The middle wholesale market is the heart and soul of the Tsukiji Market and is where much of the buying and selling of goods occurs. Primary auctions for some fish happens early morning at around 5. Once the primary auction is complete, the fish are taken by the buyers, known as middle wholesalers, who cut, package and ship product to the end customers. The middle wholesale area is where the big fish, such as maguro tuna, are cut and packaged for shipment to clients. It's possible to see large bandsaws slicing frozen fish into cuts for sale. Although much of the product never goes on display in the market, many of the middle wholesalers are active sellers in the market and have an amazing array of seafood for sale.

Tsukiji is a fresh "wet market," so the floors can be slippery. It is also an active markets, so trucks, trolleys, buyers and sellers are moving around the market in great haste and it is important to be aware of surroundings to avoid an accident.

Tourists and individual buyers are welcome in the middle wholesale market from around 8:30am and the markets winds down at around 10am. Any earlier than 8:30am visitors risk getting in the way of the market professionals, who are known to have short tempers occasionally.

Part of the fun of the inner market is just walking around and finding out what's for sale. Japanese love seasonal food, and many of the fish available in the market are for sale for onlya a limited amount of time during the season each year.

Enjoy the market atmosphere, be careful and perhaps buy something to enjoy.

Note, the primary auctions are open for controlled tours at 5am. The tours are limited to 120 persons and last 45 minutes. Gathering point for the primary auction tour is the Kachidoki Gate of the market.

One of Tokyo's most iconic bridges, Kachidoki drawbridge construction started in the 1930s and was complete in 1940. Originally intended to provide access to the planned, but never held, Tokyo Exposition celebrating the Japanese imperial line, the increasing tension due to the war in China led to the cancellation of the event.

At the time the bridge was a matter of national pride, as it was designed and built with only domestic engineers and contractors, with no foreign participation.

After completion, the bridge was opened five times each day for 20 minutes. Over time the construction of newer bridges upstream the Sumida restricted river boat traffic and increasing traffic on the road led to less frequent bridge openings. The bridge was opened for the last time on Nov. 29, 1970. Despite the nostalgic calls from various citizen groups to open the bridge, it remains in a permanent down position and is unlikely to be opened again in the future.

The museum was opened in 2005 to display artifacts and the history of the bridge. Operating hours are 9:30am to 4:30pm every Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday. The museum is free and operated by the Tokyo City Highway Maintenance Authority.

It's a small museum and takes only about 15 minutes to visit. The people working at reception are friendly and appreciate visitors. Ask for the free pack of bridge photo post cards.

Even if the museum is closed, the bridge is worth a quick visit to see one of the last prewar civil engineering structures remaining in Tokyo.

Back toward the Tsukiji crossing, as you walk along Highway 304 is the Tsukiji Outer Market. More oriented toward ordinary consumers and shoppers, the market has a wide variety of goods for sale in its narrow alleys.

Incredibly busy on weekends and before holidays, it's easy to follow the crowds to the most popular shops and stalls.

Of course, fresh sushi is available with the fish sourced from the markets just a few steps away.

It's fun to just wander around the market; stop in to eat at any sushi restaurant or other restaurant that looks good.

In the shadow of the skyscrapers of Shidome and facing the Tokyo inner harbor is Hama Rikyu Gardens. A short walk from the Tsukiji Market, the gardens are tucked into a compact space between the market on one side, the Takeshiba piers on the other; the harbor road and highway are on the land side.

The gardens have a small pond, teahouse and flower garden, and provide a small patch of verdant greenery in the midst of the busy city. An amazingly peaceful green space with colorful flowers and green grass, it seems out of sync with the chaotic city located just outside the wooden gates.

The gardens were established during the Edo period and used later by the imperial household as a venue to host foreign dignataries. The gardens were the venue for the visit of Ulysses S. Grant, former U.S. president and American Civil War hero, to Emperor Meiji in 1879.

After the end of the Pacific War, the gardens were transferred from the imperial household to the city of Tokyo at the order of the occupation authorities and opened to the public in 1946.

Hama Rikyu is protected as a Special Heritage Site by the Japanese government. Admission is 300 yen. The venue currently provides audio tour guides.

The original Shimbashi station is preserved among the skyscrapers of the Shiodome business and hotel complex.

Originally opened in 1872, the station was the Tokyo side terminus for service to Yokohama.

Used for passengers until 1914, when it became a freight station, passenger service was moved to the more modern and central Tokyo Station that year.

The rail yard was developed into the current Shiodome business park, with redevelopment completed in 2006.

This is the main shopping street of Japan's most iconic area. On weekends, the road is closed and turned into a "pedestrian's paradise." Located near the Shimbashi side of Ginza is Hakuhinkan, one of the first toy shops in Japan, established in 1899. The Matsuzakaya Department Store was the former PX for the U.S. occupation forces after the end of the Pacific War.

The Ginza 3 Chome crossing is celebrated as the center of Ginza and usually noted as the most expensive plot of land in the world.

Surrounding the crossing are thousands of shops, boutiques, restaurants and prestigious department stores. Below the crossing is Ginza station, a major stop on a number of Tokyo Metro subway lines.