Thierry Marx helms the kitchen at Château Cordeillan-Bages, a two-starred restaurant in Pauillac owned by Lynch-Bages winery. His reputation as both tireless innovator and spiritual leader of the region’s food renaissance lures many to the hotel’s sedate dining room. The “risotto,” truffled and moistened with oyster jus
, is composed of crunchy soybean sprouts instead of rice. Marx’s signature “saucisson virtuel
” calls for the waiter to puncture a bubble of edible plastic so that warm bouillon oozes out onto the plate, miraculously transmogrifying the whole into something deliciously recognizable as earthy lentils and sausage.
Route des Châteaux