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Sisters, Oregon, United States

Three Fingered Jack Standard Summit Route

Via PCT and South Ridge

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Difficulty: Difficult
Length: 11.7 miles / 18.8 km
Duration: Full day
 
Overview: This is an advanced mountaineering climb with vertical walls at the top and very poor rock. You absolutely MUST have rock climbing and mountaineering skills and the relative gear to make this ascent. From the parking, follow the PCT to nearly the western face of the mountain. Look for a cairn marking the climbers route and follow it up to the summit pinnacles where you will need to clip into bolts in the rock. You and your partner will belay each other for the rest of the trip and most likely rappel down from the summit which is a very narrow ridge only about a foot wide with over thousand foot drops on either side. If you have any fear of heights whatsoever do not attempt this climb. Again, you must have prior experience leading climbs to attempt this.

Tips: Start at the parking lot opposite of the Hoodoo road off of Route 20 in Santiam Pass. A Northwest Forest Pass is required for this parking lot.

Points of Interest

Viewpoint
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PCT Through a Burned Forest

You will follow the PCT through a burnt forest that is regrowing with beautiful wildflowers and bear grass.
Junction
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Scree Slope

Here you can tell the ancient volcano is crumbling. Up higher you'll understand why as you grab for a rock hold to pull yourself up and it rips out of the rock... seriously... really bad rock here. The photo of the cairn here is what you must look for to indicate the climbers trail.
Mountain
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Summit

This is the summit. As you can see from the photo of me on top it is extremely narrow and you absolutely must remain on rope. Great views of Jefferson and south to the Sisters. Look down for some real vertigo!
Pictures in this guide taken by: CascadeClimber

Jonathan Ellinger

Three Fingered Jack Standard Summit Route Trail Map


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About the Author

CascadeClimber
CascadeClimber
333 guides
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Although I have climbed over 250 mountains from various places around the U.S. and have hiked in Europe...

Three Fingered Jack Standard Summit Route 3 Day Forecast

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