The Shrines and Temples of Yamato - Nara Prefecture.

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Difficulty: Moderate
Length: 7.3 miles / 11.8 km
Duration: Full day

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Overview: When I commenced my research for this guide, I became aware that there is a substantial history in this area. Which presented me with a problem - where do I begin?
I will begin with introducing you to the main character, and an individual you will hear a lot of, as I explain the history of the Shrines and Temples in the Yamato district of Nara - Crown Prince Shotoku(573-621),second son of Emperor Yomei.
It was Prince Shotoku who was responsible for bringing Buddhism into Japan,as a fulfillment of a deathbed wish of his late father, Emperor Yomei(518-587).
Once departing the J.R.Yamatokoizumi Station, you soon find yourself weaving your way through narrow streets to your first destination - Koizumi-jinjya (Shrine).From here, you pass the homestead of Katagiri Sadamitsu (see P.O.I. for full details)before joining Route-123 and your ascent to Matsuo-dera Temple.Matsuo-dera is nestled amongst the forest of Matsuo-yama (Mt Matsuo)and overlooks the Yamato district and offers great views of the surrounding countryside, including Nara.After a stroll through the complex,you begin your descent through the forest exiting via a local golf-course (don't worry,your track is well fenced to protect you from any wayward golf-balls)where you will be greeted by some very-nice picturesque Japanese countryside.Soon you will exit this road, in favour of a cycle/pedestrian way that will take you to Horin-ji Temple.This is an ideal spot to take a bite-to-eat,but,the caretakers of the complex have asked that you don't consume your lunch within the complex.Not to worry,a hundred meters down the road is a sheltered seating area for you to relax, with a map of the area with your route to the next destination - Chugu-ji Temple.To get here you again have to weave your way through some narrow streets and some quaint Japanese houses.Adjacent to Chugu-ji is Horyu-ji Temple, the main attraction of this guide.To appreciate this huge complex, with it's many buildings and history, may I suggest you allow plenty of time to wander freely and not to rush the experience. There is so much to see/experience.After exiting Horyu-ji, you join a short boulevard (Route-146)lined with many Sakura (Cherry trees) and Willow, the perfect end (almost) to your day.A 20-minute walk from here takes you to the J.R. Horyu-ji Station, and home.
I would like to take this opportunity to acknowledge the assistance of my friend and guide,Motokazu Mishima.Motokazu-san is an experienced guide and has a great knowledge of Japan and it's history.I have attached a link to the organization he is associated with.

Tips: Access to the area is best by Japan Rail. Yamatokoizumi and Horyuji Stations are on the J.R. Yamatoke Line,which runs from Osaka to Nara. From Kyoto,you take the J.R.Nara Line to Nara and change there.
If you are in Nara,and want to visit the Horyu-ji Temple,there is a special bus that departs from J.R.Nara and Kintetsu Nara Stations.
If you want to commence your tour from Masuo-dera Temple,there is a bus that runs from the J.R.Yamatokoizumi Station to the complex.
The first section of this guide - J.R.Yamatokoizumi Station to Matsuo-dera Temple, is not well signposted,so you need to follow this map carefully.From Matsuo-dera all the way to the end,the trail is very-well signposted,plus there are notice-boards,with maps,giving directions and a history in English.
Admittance;to Matsuo-dera is ￥300,to Horin-ji is ￥300,to Chugu-ji is ￥500,to Toin Garan (Eastern Precinct Horyu-ji)is ￥200 and to Saiin Garan (Western Precinct Horyu-ji) is ￥1,000.
With regards to food & drink,I suggest you purchase your supplies before you arrive.There are combination stores along the way,and the occasional small cafe,but,to be on the safe-side,stock-up before you arrive.If you are only visiting Horyu-ji Temple,there are plenty of eateries in the area.
When to come and what to wear? Well,any-time of year is a good time to visit Japan.All I say,is just dress accordingly.

Points of Interest

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Start - J.R. Yamatokoizumi Station.

This is where your adventure commences. There is a notice-board,at the base of the escalator, with a map of the area and a guide to the many shrines and temples that adorn the area..

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Directions.

This narrow stretch of road could be referred to as the Yamatokoizumi C.B.D. with many small shops and banks lining both sides of the street.

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Koizumi Sokudobashi Bridge.

After your stroll through the Yamatokoizumi C.B.D. you arrive at this junction. Take note of the small Jizou and rest-area on your left.

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Directions.

Just across the bridge you reach this junction (unfortunately I didn't take a photo). From this point you need to be paying careful attention as the narrow lanes may become confusing.One wrong turn, and god-knows where you will end up.Don't panic if you do.

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Directions.

Turn left here, and keep an eye-out for your next turn to your right, which is just a few meters away.

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Directions.

If you haven't walked-past this junction, Koizumi Shrine should be in front of you.

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Torii, entrance to Koizumi Shrine.

This Torii should be noticeable from the previous junction.These are always a welcoming sight as Shrines can have a spiritual effect on a visitor to a complex such as this - as I am about to discover.

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Entrance gate.

One of the reasons I chose to include Koizumi Shrine in this guide,is to do with the gates on this entranceway. The gates are said to have been moved here from Yamatokoizumi Castle, after the castle was demolished in 1873.It is believed Yamatokoizumi Castle was constructed between 1332 and 1391.
For more information check-out my "Guide" -"Yamatokoriyana and Yanatokoizumi Castles".

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Koizumi Shrine.

There is very-little information available regarding Koizumi Shrine, just to say that it was the shrine for the Koizumi Clan that resided in this area for the past generations.This is not the original shrine.

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Original Koizumi Shrine.

We were very-honoured to have been given the opportunity to gain access to the original shrine.The shrine is rarely opened for public viewing. What made the occasion more special was that we were greeted by a direct descendant of the Koizumi Clan.

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Directions.

As you exit the complex, via this gate, your next turn is to the immediate right. Don't panic if you miss it. Just follow the lane out to the main road,turn right and continue through to route-123 (two intersections away) and turn left there.

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Katagiri Sadamitsu Clan Homestead.

On your right, over the other side of the pond, is the white exterior buildings of the Katagiri Sadaitsu Clan Homestead.Katagiri Sadamitsu is a direct descendant of Katagiri Katsumoto (1556 to 1615), a Samurai of the Azuchi-Momayama Period through to the Edo Period. Katagiri served under Toyotomi Hedeyori, a powerful Shogun at that time.
If you have the time, take a wander over the bridge and walk around the block and view other parts of the homestead.As you see on the map, the street reconnects.
For more information check-out my "Guide" - "Yamatokoriyama and Yamatokoizumi Castles".

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Katagiri Homestead Shrine.

In Autumn, when these photos were taken, the colours were brilliant. But I would say that any time of the year, this would be a brilliant sight.

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Directions.

As you arrive at this junction, you will notice the building in the photo,a left turn here puts you onto route-123 an in the direction of Matsuo-dera Temple.

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Directions.

You are about to leave-behind the confines of urban-Yamatokoizumi and enter the countryside. The road narrows here, so I suggest you keep to the footpath on the right side of the road.

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Directions/Caution.

Don't worry if you miss this turn-off,both roads reconnect.Just a note of caution, be careful when you cross the road.

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Torii, entrance to Kinezuka-jinjya.

I have included this landmark to let you know you are on the right track.
The Torii is on your left, as you come in the direction the photo was taken.

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Yamado-detsu Monument.

This monument dates-back to the Taisho Era and was erected here in 1935 to help direct weary travellers. Today we use sign-posts and traffic lights.

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Japanese Farmhouse.

I appreciate the fact some people don't like having their house photographed, but there was something about this house that inspired me to photo it.
It also gives me the opportunity to inform you that the road begins it's ascent here.And also to encourage you to walk on the footpath, on the right side of the road.

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Small Jizou's and Monument.

I have a fondness for the Jizou, they can be very cute and be found in the most unlikely of places.
It is also an opportunity to inform you that you are reaching Matsuo-dera Temple.

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Gate, entrance to Matsuo-dera Temple.

Just after you thought you had reached to peak of your ascent, I am sorry to have to tell you that you have some 80-steps to climb before you reach the next complex - Matsuo-dera Temple.
The gate/entrance is quite a magnificent structure to be greeted by. But take it slow, as you make this final climb. There are some obscured treasures amongst the trees that surround your climb - most important of them is the calmness and serenity of the location.

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Matsuo-dera temple.

Nestled amongst the forest of Matsuoyama (Mt Matsuo)is Matsuo-dera Temple.Considered the oldest "turning away evil" temple in Japan,Matsuo-dera was,as legend goes,constructed in 718 by Prince Toneri (676 to 735),an Imperial Prince during the Nara period and son of Emperor Temmu,in the hope of warding-off evil.
Unfortunately I couldn't take a better photo than this one, thanks mainly to not having the room to get the whole temple into frame. But. Take my word, when I say, it's a sight to behold.

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Three-storied Pagoda.

To the rear of the Temple is a three-storied Pagoda, with a network of steps and tracks that lead you to a shrine.
As you make your ascent to the pagoda,take note of the many carvings situated in the cliff-face.

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Torii and Scenic Outlook.

As you approach the concrete Torii, you begin to get a good look over the countryside below.

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Matsuo-dera Shrine.

As mentioned in an earlier P.O.I. shrines can take on a special interest, and this one is no exception.Keep an ear-out for the serenity and quietness. It's inspiring.

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Farewell to Matsuo-dera.

After descending a flight of stairs, passing through a car-park, you reach this gate as you make your exit from Matsuo-dera Temple.From here you begin your descent through the forest of Matsuoyama.
As you make your descent,you will notice a series of concrete posts indicating the distance from the temple.

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Directions.

Just to confirm you are on the right track,not that there are any other tracks to confuse you, you pass-by this group of maintenance sheds.

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Directions.

You have reached a junction,where,from what we were told,both tracks lead to the same destination. But,as we were also told,the track to the right is the best option.So,in saying that,take the track on the right.
Take note of the small Jizou on the left.

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Scenic Viewpoint.

You have exited to forest of Matsuoyama, dodged the many wayward golf-balls (just joking)and you arrive at this viewpoint - the Japanese countryside at it's very-best.

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Directions/Viewpoint.

On the right side of the road is this noticeboard.It gives you directions to your next destination - Horin-ji Temple - and some information on the nearby history.Read it, it is very interesting.
Some years ago, a Tomb was discovered with artefacts that date-back to 10,000 to 350BC.

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Directions.

From your last P.O.I. to this point, you pass by a graveyard with many headstones.On the right at the junction,there is a lamp-post with a sign pointing you to the left,in the direction of your next destination - Horin-ji Temple.

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Directions.

After passing-by some more gravestones, you reach this junction. Your trail veers-off to the left and becomes a pedestrian/cycleway.Don't worry if you miss the turn-off,you turn left at the next junction and Horin-ji is in front of you.

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Directions.

Just to confirm you are on the right track,you will pass-by another cemetery.

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Viewpoint.

It is at this point you get your first glimpse of the three-storied pagoda at Horin-ji Temple.

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Gate/Entrance to Horin-ji Temple.

There is a very-strong country atmosphere surrounding this complex.So peaceful and serene.

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Horin-ji Temple.

One of Prince Shotoku's many achievements was the establishment of Japan's first "Kan-i Junikai" system (a merit-based promotion system irrespective of social class).
Horin-ji Temple was constructed in621 by his son,Prince Yamashiro-oe-no-o,who used the temple to pray for his father's recovery from illness.
In 670 the temple was destroyed by fire,then,in 1645,the new temple was destroyed by a violent storm.
The temple is home to many fine Buddhist statues.

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Three storied Pagoda.

Constructed at the same time as the temple(621),the pagoda was to survive the fire that destroyed the temple in 670, and the violent storm of 1645.But unfortunately,in 1940 the pagoda was destroyed by fire,after being struck by lightening and was rebuilt at a later date.

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Belfry.

Tucked-away in a corner of the complex,amongst the pine trees, is a small Belfry.

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Directions.

You are looking in the direction of your next destination - a covered picnic area.On your right is the pedestrian/cycle-way you have just come from. The temple is to the rear.

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Sheltered Picnic Area.

This is an ideal time/place to have that long-awaited lunch break.There is a sheltered seating area,but,if it is a fine day,I recommend you sit in the sun.There is also a noticeboard,with map of the area and directions to your next destination - Chugu-ji Temple.There is also an English explanation of the local history.

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Directions.

The area is well signposted with directions to all the complexes in the area (check the lamp-post opposite the pond.It has signs directing you)
From this point you are going to Horyu-ji Temple,and,from this point,you proceed straight ahead.
I also need to warn you that the street becomes a narrow lane, but pay attention to the signs.

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Directions.

Turn right here,then,a few meters further-on,turn left.

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Directions.

You are nearly there.The clay wall,on your left,is part of the Chugu-ji complex.Continue on straight ahead.

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Directions.

The buildings on your left is Chugu-ji.In the photo you can see the entrance.

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Gate/Entrance to Chugu-ji Temple.

Upon entering the complex,I recommend you visit Chugu-ji first.Access is to your left and to the rear.You will see another entrance in the far corner.

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Chugu-ji Temple.

Located just outside the northeastern tip of the Horyu-ji complex,Chugu-ji is used as a seperate temple for Buddhist Nuns. The original complex,believed to have been constructed in Asuka Period (592-710),was the home of Empress Anahobe-no Hashito,the mother of Prince Shotoku.

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Chugu-ji Temple Main Hall.

The present main hall, which was constructed in 1968 upon the request of Princess Takamatsunomiya, is both fire-proof and earthquake-proof.
Upon entering you are required to remove your shoes,not take any photos and turn-off your cellphone.
Inside the hall is the "Sitting Bodhisattva with One Leg Pendant", and is a "National Treasure".The statue is said to be one of three smiling masterpieces in the world, alongside the Sphinx of Egypt and the Mona Lisa.
Also there is a replica of "Tenjukoku Shucho Mandala", another "National Treasure". The Mandala was embroidered by Prince Shotoku's Consort after his death.

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Toin Garan ( Eastern Precinct) - Horyu-ji Temple.

After exiting the Chugu-ji complex, you now get to see/experience Horyu-ji, beginning with "Toin Garan".

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Toin Shoro (Bell House of the Eastern Precinct).

Constructed in trapezoidal form,also known as "Hakakagoshi(Spreading Skirt),the Nara Period bell has the words "Chugu-ji" engraved on the inside,indicating that it has been in the possession of at least one other temple in it's more than 1,000-year existence.

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Yumedono - Hall of Visions.

Constructed in 739, as a monument to the late Prince Shotoku,this octagonal pavilion is the oldest of it's kind in Japan.
Enshrined within the pavilion is the "Kuse Kannon", or "Avalokitesvara the Savour", a life-size statue of Prince Shotoku.
The buildings surrounding Yumedono, the "Shariden" (Reliquary Hall)and "Eden" (Hall of Paintings),house relics of a Buddha,which legend has,sprang forth from the palms of two-year old Prince Shutoku as he joined his hands in prayer.

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Directions.

Upon exiting the Chugu-ji and Toin Garan,you proceed ahead towards the "Todaimon" (East Main Gate).

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Todaimon (East Main Gate).

After your stroll down the clay-walled avenue,you reach the "Todaimon" and the entrance to "Saiin Garan" (Western Precinct)of Horyu-ji.

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Map of Horyu-ji Temple.

Here lies my next problem. Where do I begin? This is a huge complex with many buildings to see/experience with an even huger history attached.
My route takes you past the main buildings,but please feel free to wander-around at your own pace and direction.
One recommendation;Don't rush your time here.Take it all in.

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Main Entrance.

For the cost of 1,000-yen, you will get to see/experience the home of Buddhism in Japan.

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Goju-no-To (Five-Story Pagoda).

Pagodas are evolved from forms of Indian Stupas, and are the most important structures in Buddhist Temples.
Standing at 32.5-meters,"Goju-no-To is the oldest five-story pagoda in Japan and is widely acknowledged to be one of the oldest existing wooden buildings in the world.The wood used as the central pillar of the pagoda is estimated to have been felled in 594.
Around the exterior of the pagoda are four sculptured scenes from the life of Buddha face north,east,south and west.
Inside the pagoda is a collection of clay statues dating-back to the early Nara period (710-794).

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Kondo (Main Hall).

The "Kondo" is the sacred edifice in which are enshrined statues to which Horyu-ji is dedicated.The two-storied hall is another of the oldest wood buildings extant in the world.
Within this stately building stands a bronze Asuka-period "Shaka (Sakyamuni)Triad",made by the famous sculptor Tori,in honour of Prince Shotoku.Also housed within the complex, are many other statues,sculptures and carvings dedicated to the Imperial Family.

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Daikodo (Great Lecture Hall).

Originally constructed as a facility for Monks to pursue their Buddhist studies,and as a facility in which to conduct memorial services,the hall,along with the Bell House, were struck by lightning in 925 and burned to the ground.
The current lecture hall,the "Yakushi Triad" (a Buddhist "Triad" is a Buddha flanked by two attendants)to which the building is dedicated,and the four heavenly guardians,were rebuilt in 990.

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Daihozoin (Gallery of Temple Treasures).

Constructed in 1998,this structure is a rich repository of Japan's cultural heritage.Preserved within it's walls are many priceless items,including the famous "Yumechigai Kannon Statue".The statue is said to have been the private property of Empress Suiko (554-628)the 33rd Emperor of Japan and the 1st of 8 women to have taken on the role of Empress Regnant.
Also confined within "Daihozoin" are treasures that are the legacy of 1,400-years of worship at Horyu-ji.

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Nandaimon (South Main Gate).

Restored in 1438, the Nandaimon combines simple elegance with power and dignity. Regardless if you are entering or exiting through this gate,it befits it's role as the main gateway into Horyu-ji.

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Boulevard of Sakura and Willow Trees.

As you exit Horyu-ji, and make your way down the boulevard of Sakura (Cherry Trees) and Willow trees, you will be reminded of the beauty that exists in this area.
During Cherry Blossom Season (April/May) this will be a sight-to-behold. If you have spare time,take a rest and enjoy/appreciate the colour.

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Directions.

If you are just visiting Horyu-ji,and have come from,or are returning to Nara,there is a bus-service that leaves this depot, and will take you directly to J.R.Nara and Kintetsu Nara Stations.
If you are taking the train from J.R.Horyuji Station,take route-5 (turn right at this junction)for the 20-minute walk.My suggestion is you walk on the left side of the road as access to the station can be easily missed.

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Directions.

If you miss this junction you will walk over a bridge that crosses the rail-line.There is a sign on the lamp-post directing you to the station.You turn left here,then,a meter-or-so on,you turn right.Pay special attention to the signs as you may miss your destination.The alleys/lanes here are very narrow and lined on both sides with shops/stalls.

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Directions.

Turn left here,at the far-end of the lane is the J.R.Horyuji Station.
The alleys/lanes here are very narrow and are lined with shops/stalls on both sides.

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J.R.Horyuji Station.

You have arrived,after what I hope has been a great experience for you, at your departure point.
From here you can return to your destination - Osaka,Kyoto,Kobe,Nara.

Pictures in this guide taken by: katchie, theoutdoorholic

How does this work?

You did a nice job integrating historical information into this guide, Barry. It is extremely interesting.

by trailsnet on Dec 22, 2010