The Gothic Quarter and the Old Town

Overview: Barcelona is a clutch of different cities. It's the lively, squawking, bustling energy of the Ramblas; the elegance of the Passeig de Gràcia and the wide boulevards of the Eixample; the surreal splendor of Gaudí's mysterious creations; and the fun-loving, casual, beach bum's playground of the sandy beaches along the regenerated waterfront.

But before it was all those things Barcelona was the center of a confident seafaring mercantile class that traded and left its mark across much of Europe and the near East, only to dwindle in importance once the Atlantic replaced the Mediterranean as the most lucrative highway of trade (and imperial exploitation). They left behind a legacy of buildings from the 12th to 14th centuries that reflect the robust confidence that once held sway, and you can feel it as you walk past the merchants' palaces of Carrer Montcada, stand dwarfed by the watchtower of the Plaça del Rei or admire the cloisters and choir stalls of the severe yet imposing Gothic Cathedral. Scrape beyond the medieval trappings and you will find remnants of the ancient Roman city of Barcino.

Today the Gothic Quarter (and old town in general) is fun to visit because these historical markers are seamlessly integrated into the life of the city. And so the works of the greatest artist of the modern era find a perfect home within the reassuring solidity of a row of medieval palaces, and the city government and stock exchange operate from buildings in place long before Columbus returned in triumph. The streets are narrow, shady and maze-like, and sprinkled with intriguing family run shops that elsewhere were long ago dispatched by the supermarket and the mall, and there are lots of intriguing spots to stop for a drink and some food.

Follow the route—but also give yourself permission to get lost.

Tips: Remember if planning a long weekend that the City History, Picasso and Marès museums are closed on Mondays (except for some holiday weekends), so plan your visit with that in mind. On the plus side, particularly in summer, museums are generally open until 7 or 8pm, so you can arrange to see more than in places with more restricted opening hours.

At €10 adult entrance, the Picasso Museum is pricey. If you are interested in art you may well also plan to visit the Miró Foundation or the National Art Museum (both in Montjuïc) or possibly Gaudí's La Pedrera in the Eixample. If you visit any three of those (or Picasso and La Pedrera), you will save money with an Articket, which is valid for six months and gives you access to the four properties mentioned plus three others. It costs €25, but you'll get a 5 percent discount if you order it online from www.barcelonaturisme.com and exchange the printed receipt for the ticket on arrival. It also lets you walk to the front of the entry line.

You can also save money by having a Barcelona card—a combined transport and museum entry pass that provides free entry to a number of museums and discounts at others. They can be bought for two to five days, with prices rising incrementally for the length of your stay. Obviously the longer you stay the better value it becomes, as you will visit more museums. In the Gothic Quarter and old town route it provides free entry to the City History Museum at Plaça del Rei and a 20 percent discount at the Picasso Museum. If you are weighing it against the Articket, it also provides free entry to the National Art Museum in Montjuïc, and a 20 per cent discount at the Picasso Museum, among a large number of others. It costs from €27.50 for two days through to €45 for five days, all subject to a 10 percent discount if ordered online.

Be aware that graffiti is rife in Barcelona. Walk through the streets of the Gothic Quarter at night and you may think the shops with their liberally defaced shutters are derelict. Visit the next morning and you'll find spruced shops, sometimes with delightful Modernista façades, the offending shutters recessed as if they had never been there.