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Long Beach, Washington, United States

North Head Trails

Variety of trails around North Head. Highlights include old fort, lighthouse, and coastal forest.

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Difficulty: Moderate
Length: 8.0 miles / 12.9 km
Duration: 1-3 hours
Family Friendly
 
Overview: This is a nice hike through coastal forest. The Lewis & Clark Expedition came through here looking for a place to build camp for winter, before they ultimatly crossed back over the Columbia near Astoria. There are a few signs along the way detailing their journey.

You also get to see North Head Lighthouse, and if you pay $2.50 you can go inside.

I really enjoyed exploring the McKenzie Head World War II bunker, where they had stationed guns to guard the mouth of the Columbia River. Bring a flashlight to explore all the rooms and corridors.


Tips: When I hiked this trail I did it one-way (4 miles) and started at Beard's Hollow. However, if you don't have a shuttle car and you want to go both directions (8 miles) you will probably want to start at McKenzie Head.

If you start at Beard's Hollow, or North Head Lighthouse you will be traveling downhill to McKenzie Head.

From Seattle:
Take I-5 south to Olympia, SR 8 west to Montesano. From there, take U.S. Hwy. 101 south to Long Beach Peninsula. Follow signs to Ilwaco and Cape Disappointment park. Then

From Portland:
Take I-5 north to Longview, then SR 4 west to U.S. Hwy. 101. Then drive south to Long Beach Peninsula. Follow signs to Ilwaco and Cape Disappointment park.

Points of Interest

Parking
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Beard's Hollow

You can park here at Beard's Hollow, you will find the trailhead marked "Westwind Trail"
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Ancient Spruce Forest

Parking
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Parking Area for Lighthouse

You can choose to do a loop trail out to North Head Lighthouse, or continue across the parking lot to continue onto McKenzie Head
Building
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Light Keepers House

You can actually rent this out and stay here for the night. I've linked to the website in this guide.

Call (888) CAMPOUT or (888) 226-7688, or
Washington Telecommunications Relay Service at (800) 833-6388.
Reservable up to nine months in advance.
Two-night minimum stay required (three nights during holidays)
Viewpoint
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View of Cape Disappointment

Building
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North Head Lighthouse

The Cape Disappointment Lighthouse, installed in 1856, was obscured to ships approaching from the north by the headland extending southwest from the light. To correct this, a lighthouse was built at North Head, which faces the ocean directly and would be clearly visible to ships traveling from the north. The 65-foot tower stood on a 130-foot cliff. The lens was the first-order lens from Cape Disappointment, and was first lit in 1898. In 1935, the first-order lens was replaced by a fourth-order lens. That lens was eventually replaced by an aerobeacon in the 1950s, and later by a modern optic mounted outside the tower. The light was automated in 1961. Today the lighthouse is part of Cape Disappointment State Park.

You can go inside for a fee of $2.50
Junction
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North Head Trail

This trail will take you down to McKenzie Head.
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Hike through the forest

You will hike through spruce and alder trees, and cross the occasional wooden bridge.
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Cross Road to McKenzie Head Trail

If you choose to start your hike at McKenzie Head enter the North Head trail here.
Parking
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McKenzie Head Trail

There is parking here.
Landmark
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McKenzie Head

There is an old World War II bunker you can explore up here. Don't forget your flashlight.

Also, Clark of Lewis & Clark fame wrote the following in his journal from the top of McKenzie Head.

To the iner extremity of Cape Disapointment passing a nitch in which there is a Small rock island, a Small Stream falls into this nitch from a pond which is imediately on the Sea coast passing through a low isthmus. this Cape is an ellivated circlier [cir-] cular] point covered with thick timber on the iner Side and open grassey exposure next to the Sea and rises with a Steep assent to hight of about 150 or 160 feet above the leavel of the water this cape as also the Shore both on the Bay & Sea coast is a dark brown rock. I crossed the neck of Land low and ½ of a mile wide to the main Ocian, at the foot of a high open hill projecting into the ocian, and about one mile in Si[r]cumfrance. I assended this hill which is covered with high corse grass. descended to the N. of it and camped. [walked] 19 Miles [to-day]." (DeVoto 1997, 287)

Clark and his party of men returned to the base camp on November 20th. A few days later, the Corps of Discovery decided to investigate the south side of the Columbia River, and eventually established Fort Clatsop there as their winter encampment.
Pictures in this guide taken by: JMilesMiller, luffman, Pfadfinder, earlecj

North Head Trails Trail Map


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About the Author

JMilesMiller
JMilesMiller
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I've always liked the outdoors, but have been into hiking trails heavily since 2009. Everytrail really...

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