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Exmouth and Coral Bay, Western Australia, Australia

Ningaloo Coast World Heritage Area

Cape Range National Park, Ningaloo Marine Park and Bundegi and Jurabi coastal parks

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Length: 186.4 miles / 300.0 km
Duration: Multiple days
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Overview: The Ningaloo Coast World Heritage area is full of contrasts. You can pass from a high plateau shrubland to deep ocean within just a few kilometres. Hike through eucalypt woodlands or climb up deep rocky gorges, enjoying breathtaking scenery. Walk over a flat coastal plain and discover the range’s terraces (a succession of ancient fossil reefs), explore coastal dunes and rocky shores or just laze in the sun on one of the most beautiful and pristine beaches you can imagine. Take the plunge into the stunning Ningaloo Marine Park, where you can see staghorn and other coral gardens, populated by colourful fish, turtles, rays and sharks only a short snorkel from shore.

Visitors to Cape Range National Park can camp at camp sites along the length of the park's coast. From here, it is just a few steps to magnificent Ningaloo Marine Park. The access road through the park is sealed, with 2WD access roads to camp and day-use sites. A 4WD is needed to cross Yardie Creek. Conditions change quickly with rain and access may become restricted. Camp sites have limited facilities, without power or water. Fees apply and there are restrictions to the length of time you can camp in the park.

The Ningaloo Coast - which also includes Muiron Islands Marine Management Area, Muiron Islands Nature Reserve and Learmonth Air Weapons Range - was inscribed on the World Heritage List for its natural beauty and biological diversity. Particular values for which it was included on the World Heritage List were:
* aesthetically striking coastal and terrestrial environment of the Ningaloo Reef adjacent to the Cape Range
* the lush and colourful underwater scenery and its contrast with the arid and rugged land
* annual aggregation of whale sharks, one of the largest in the world
* important aggregations of other fish species and marine mammals
* high marine diversity, including an unusual diversity of marine turtle species
* rare and diverse subterranean creatures
* diversity of reptiles and flowering plants in the drylands.


Tips: For all information about camping in Cape Range National Park and for bookings please see dec.wa.gov.au/campgrounds. Camping areas are signposted (no campfires are allowed in the park) and fees apply. Some areas are for day use only. Water is available at only one bore within the park and visitors are advised to bring their own water for drinking. You can also stay at a wilderness camp within the park (swags and safari tents are provided). Just outside the park boundaries, chalets, units, on-site vans and caravan sites are available at Yardie Homestead and at Lighthouse Caravan Park, just three kilometres from the Tantabiddi boat ramp. Supplies are available at Exmouth and Coral Bay.

Safety information:
* Drinking water is not available within Cape Range National Park. Visitors must bring their own water.
* Protect yourself from the sun, whether in or out of the water. Remember to always wear sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat.
* Take adequate fuel when driving and boating (fuel can only be obtained at Exmouth and Coral Bay).
* Shade is scarce. The use of heavy duty fabrics as shade and or windbreaks is recommended.
* Strong currents are caused by a build up of water in the lagoon behind the reef. Large waves and a high tide level contribute to the amount of water in the lagoon that needs to escape through the gaps in the reef. Inexperienced swimmers should not swim or snorkel in strong currents, especially unaccompanied by an experienced person. Inexperienced swimmers wishing to snorkel should seek the services of licensed tour operators if they are unable to find an experienced person to accompany them.

When walking:
* Hot dry weather dehydrates your body quickly, so always carry four litres of water per person per day.
* Wear a wide-brimmed hat, sunscreen and sturdy walking shoes.
* Temperatures may be exceptionally high (more than 50°C in summer), especially in the canyons. Walks should only be attempted between April and September.
* For your own safety please remain on existing tracks.
* Pets are not permitted within the park.
* Campfires are not permitted.

Points of Interest

Viewpoint
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Charles Knife Canyon

Viewpoint
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Thomas Carter Lookout and the Badgirrajirra Trail

The Thomas Carter Lookout is 311m above sea level and is one of the highest points in Cape Range National Park. Here you can enjoy views of the ocean, both west and east over the gulf. Picnic tables are located just before the lookout.

The lookout is the start and end of the Badjirrijirra Trail, a moderately difficult 8km loop trail traversing the top of Cape Range. The trail winds its way through rocky gullies, small gorges and open spinifex bushland. The walk also offers stunning views of Shothole Canyon and Exmouth Gulf. The trail has steep gradients and rough uneven surfaces.

WARNING: The conditions of Cape Range are harsh (the temperature can soar to over 50°C in summer). Walks should only be attempted between April and September. Wear suitable footwear and clothing, carry plenty of water and notify a friend and park ranger before leaving.
Viewpoint
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Shothole Canyon

An unsealed road traverses the bottom of this scenic canyon in one of the most rugged areas of Cape Range National Park. Named after the shotholes left by explosive charges set off during the exploration for oil in the 1950s, colourful rock layers can be seen in the canyon walls.
Animals/Wildlife
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Bundegi

Bundegi Coastal Park is jointly managed by the Shire of Exmouth and DEC. It is 14km north of Exmouth and has a boat ramp and small boat jetty. The boundary of Ningaloo Marine Park is near the edge of Bundegi Reef. The reef is a popular dive site due to its accessibility from Exmouth and the ease of reaching it from the shore.

The coral reef fish of Ningaloo Marine Park are among the most colourful and beautifully patterned of all living creatures. Even the novice snorkeller can swim in the shallows and witness an amazing variety of fish life. They live in and around more than 250 species of corals, including cabbage corals, brain corals, lavender corals and delicate colourful branching corals, which form gardens in the shallow lagoons. Green turtles have extensive rookeries inside the reef, dugong feed on seagrasses within the lagoons and humpback whales migrate close to the coast. Diving instruction, compressed air and equipment hire are available at both Exmouth and Coral Bay.

Humpback whales can often be seen in the waters of Exmouth Gulf from August to September, resting en route from breeding areas further north to their feeding grounds in Antarctica. They take their time on the trip south as they are often accompanied by calves, which need to put on layers of blubber to protect them from cooler southern waters.
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"The Dunes" surf break

Dunes Beach is the most popular surf break in Ningaloo Marine Park. The best swells for surfing are from July to October.
Viewpoint
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Vlamingh Head Lighthouse

Vlaming Head Lighthouse, 19km north of Exmouth, was built in 1912 and offers sweeping views of North West Cape.

The Cape Range peninsula was probably first sighted by Europeans in 1618, when it was recorded by Claeszoon van Hillagom and Pieter Dirkzoon of the Dutch East India Company, on board the Zeewolf en route to Batavia in the Dutch East Indies.

The first European landing on the Cape is believed to be by the Dutchman Captain L Jacobsz of the ship Mauritius. The ship was travelling to Java and came across the coast by error. Jacobsz recorded that he landed on an 'island' but did not specify the exact spot. The cape was finally charted in 1818, when Lieutenant Phillip Parker King arrived to complete the survey of the Australian coastline started by Matthew Flinders. He named the peninsula North-West Cape and named Exmouth Gulf after a British Royal Navy Officer.
Animals/Wildlife
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Jurabi Turtle viewing

The Jurabi Turtle Centre is an interpretive educational facility located 13km from Exmouth townsite. The centre is accessible to the public at all times and provides information about the threatened sea turtles that live in the adjacent Ningaloo Marine Park. Threatened green turtles (Chelonia mydas), loggerhead turtles (Caretta caretta) and hawksbill turtles (Eretmochelys imbricata), three of the world's seven species of marine turtles, nest here.

From November to April, join a guided experience and view marine turtles nesting on the beaches. Please ensure you read the turtle watchers' code of conduct at the link below before heading to the beaches.

Jurabi Coastal Park is jointly managed by the Shire of Exmouth and the Department of Environment and Conservation.
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Tantabiddi

Whale shark and manta ray tours in Ningaloo Marine Park depart from the boat ramp at Tantabiddi.

From mid-March to mid-May each year visitors from all around the world converge on Ningaloo for the experience of a lifetime diving with the awesome whale shark, the world's biggest species of fish. Ningaloo Reef is the only easily accessible place in the world where these giants appear in large numbers at predictable times of the year. You do not even have to be a scuba diver to swim with these massive animals, as they swim close to the surface.

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Entrance to Cape Range National Park

Day entry fees:
$11 per vehicle (up to eight legally seated people)
$5 per concession cardholders or motorcycle
$5 per passenger or $1.50 per concession cardholder in a vehicle with more than with occupants but not on a commercial tour

Eligible concessions:
Seniors Card, Age Pension, Disability Support, Carer Payment, Carer Allowance, Department of Veterans' Affairs (DVA), Companion Card

A range of national park passes which save you money and allow multiple DEC park entries are available from DEC offices and Milyering Visitor Centre. Visit DEC's website for further information (www.dec.wa.gov.au).

Camping fees are payable in addition to park entry fees. Entry fees are only payable on the first day when camping. Camping fees are payable from the first night.
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Mangrove Bay bird hide

Mangrove Bay is a popular spot for birdwatching. A 100m walk from the car park to a purpose-built hide allows you to quietly watch some local and migratory birds in a coastal mangrove swamp.

You may be able to spot the collared mangrove kingfisher (Todiramphus chloris pilbara), which hunts at low tide over the mudflats, rather than deep diving. It often nests in termite nests in the tree canopy, in tree hollows or in earthen banks. It has a long, powerful beak and the dark stripe through its eye gives it a masked bandit appearance.
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Milyering Visitor Centre

Milyering Visitor Centre is open every day 9am to 3.45pm, except Christmas Day. Built of rammed earth and powered by solar energy, it was the first totally environmentally friendly building of its type in Australia. Displays, brochures and videos explain the natural communities of the Ningaloo Coast World Heritage area, and a small library provides information for those with special interests. Light refreshments and souvenirs are available from the adjoining shop or the centre (seasonal). You can also purchase tickets for the Yardie Creek boat cruise here. A public telephone (phone card only) is located next to the centre.

Phone: (08) 9949 2808
Email: milyering@dec.wa.gov.au
Emergencies: Milyering Visitor Centre and park staff have radio contact with DEC's Exmouth Office.
Campground
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Lakeside

Lakeside is an ideal spot to explore by snorkel from the shore. It has numerous bombies of massive corals (Porites sp.), and many other kinds of coral also grow in the area. The corals shelter a profusion of other marine life, including many colourful fish. However, the site can experience quite strong currents due to tidal movements and large swells breaking over the main reef crest, one and a half kilometres offshore. These can create lagoonal currents seeking a route back to sea through gaps in the reef. Plan to dive at slack tide and be cautious of currents if the main reef has large swells breaking over it.

Park adjacent to the Lakeside camp site (see dec.wa.gov.au/campgrounds for information about camping here), but note that vehicle access is not allowed along the beach north or south of the sandbar. You must walk south along the beach for 500m to reach the entry point.

Among the beautiful corals, expect to see large rays, colourful and energetic anemonefish and dozing sharks, but beware of fireweed, fire coral, stingrays, toadfish, stonefish and sea urchins.

Remember that the Lakeside bommies lie within a sanctuary zone within Ningaloo Marine Park. Look but don't touch. All marine life in sanctuary zones is protected.
Viewpoint
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Turquoise Bay

Turquoise Bay is an excellent dive site because of its ease in most conditions, the rich diversity of coral, fish and other marine life very close to shore and the exceptional beauty of the beach and Turquoise Bay itself.

However, care needs to be taken when swimming in strong currents. Strong currents are usually confined to the beach immediately west and south of the bay. Strong currents are caused by a build up of water in the lagoon behind the reef. Large waves and a high tide level contribute to the amount of water in the lagoon that needs to escape through the gaps in the reef. Inexperienced swimmers should not swim or snorkel in strong currents, especially unaccompanied by an experienced person. Inexperienced swimmers wishing to snorkel at Turquoise Bay can seek the services of licensed tour operators if they are unable to find an experienced person to accompany them.

You should assess the current from the beach. If you are unsure of the conditions, seek advice from others with sound local knowledge. Park rangers do not regularly patrol the beaches at Turquoise Bay. If unsure, it is better to be cautious and simply enjoy the beach or swim well inside the bay where there is less likelihood of encountering strong currents. A high tide and waves cause strong currents, especially near gaps in the main reef.

Please remember that this delightful spot is in a sanctuary zone in Ningaloo Marine Park so look but don't take.
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Oyster Stacks

The Oyster Stacks are five isolated islets that protrude from the reef. They are literally covered with oysters. This site should only be snorkelled on a high tide when there is sufficient water over the reef - please check at Milyering Visitor Centre for tide times. It is best undertaken by more experienced divers. The dive around Oyster Stacks is about 500m.

Take care of sharp oyster shells on the stacks. Do not negotiate swimthroughs, as you could easily be cut. The shore is covered with sharp and slippery rocks, broken coral and shells, so wear appropriate footwear.

Remember that Oyster Stacks is in a sanctuary zone in Ningaloo Marine Park so look but don't take.
Viewpoint
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Mandu Mandu Gorge

A 3km return trail leads along the gorge rim then descends into the gorge so that you walk along the bottom back to the carpark. There is no permanent water and very little shade. Only attempt gorge walks in the cooler months between April and November. Early mornings are often the best times to view wildlife as you walk.
Campground
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Pilgramunna

This is an excellent place for snorkellers of any level. You can drive your vehicle close to the entry point and the snorkel is undemanding, with the snorkeller rarely more than 10m from shore and only swimming about 150m in total. Despite this, the site has a surprising diversity of marine life, some beautiful coral formations, multitudes of colourful reef fish, occasional oceanic fish species, as well as rays, sharks and diverse invertebrates. This is the best snorkel around for obtaining maximum reward for minimum effort. Inexperienced snorkellers may need to be accompanied and the site should not be dived if large swells or seas are breaking or causing a turbulent wash on the front of the rock ledges. It is best dived on a high tide when the intertidal reef platforms are covered. Please be very aware of any boats within the lagoon area.

Campground
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Osprey Bay

Osprey Bay is situated above a rock-shelf shoreline which has small sandy enclaves exposed at low tide and arguably the best ocean views within Cape Range National Park.

A sandy beach leads north to Sandy Bay and is located adjacent the Osprey Sanctuary Zone of Ningaloo Marine Park. Like many other localities along the Ningaloo Coast, Osprey Bay is a shorebased recreational fishing zone, which allows recreational fishers to fish from the shore only, as the remainder of the waters are within the Osprey Sanctuary Zone. Before fishing anywhere in Ningaloo Marine Park, always "know your zones" and comply with Department of Fisheries' bag and size limits.

Animals/Wildlife
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Yardie Creek boat cruise

Experience the spectacular colours and beauty of this rugged gorge with a one-hour cruise along protected waters of Yardie Creek. Experienced DEC guides point out the unique array of wildlife - including the rare black-footed rock-wallaby, numerous birds and their nesting sites and a surprising variety of marine life.

Safe, easy boarding access, comfortable seating and shaded cruises run daily throughout the year, subject to numbers. Strong winds, rain or unforeseen circumstances may result in tour cancellation so please confirm cruise operations before you go.

Bookings and tickets are via the Milyering Visitor Centre, (08) 9949 2808, open seven days a week 9am-3.35pm, or Exmouth Visitor Centre, (08) 9949 1176, open weekdays 9am-5pm, weekends and public holidays 9am-1pm.
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Yardie Creek Gorge rim walk

This two kilometre return track takes you along the northern rim of Yardie Creek. It has spectacular views. If you look carefully you may spot rock wallabies amongst the rock ledges on the other side of the gorge.
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Shark nursery

A reef shark nursery can be found just 20 minutes walk north of Main Beach in Coral Bay. From October to March, watch as up to 200 reef sharks frolic in the shallow waters.
Food/Dining
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Coral Bay

This small but picturesque resort town offers coral gardens just metres off pristine white beaches. Explore on your own or join one of the many tours on offer including glass bottom boats, diving tours, manta ray tours, whale watching tours, whale shark tours, scenic flights, quad bike tours and catamaran tours. Diving instruction, compressed air and equipment hire are also available.

Coral Bay has two caravan parks, chalets, a hotel/motel and a range of other accommodation options. Public telephones, fuel, food and other supplies are also available.

Manta rays can be seen year round at Coral Bay. With wingspans of several metres, these graceful giants migrate in huge schools, and snorkellers and divers have the opportunity to swim with these playful creatures. Like whale sharks, they are filter feeders and have a large toothless mouth which they use like a sieve to scoop up plankton and krill. Unlike stingrays, manta rays do not have a sharp barb, making them very safe to swim, snorkel or dive with.

Double sea kayaks are the perfect way to explore the sheltered lagoons where the water is rarely more than three metres deep. They are smooth and quiet, allowing you to get close to wildlife. You can hire kayaks off the beach, or join a tour with a knowledgeable local guide.

Coral Bay Information Hut
Phone: (08)9948 5131
Email: coral.bay@dec.wa.gov.au
Pictures in this guide taken by: Tourism WA, Suzanne Long/DEC, DEC, Michael Philips/DEC

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