Mt. Washington Standard Summit Route

Overview: This is a technical mountain like Three Fingered Jack to the north that requires rock climbing and mountaineering skills. There is extreme exposure so it is not for people with fears of heights. You will approach the mountain via the PCT and then follow a steep climbers trail to the north ridge which you will follow to the final summit block. Once you get to the saddle beneath the summit block parties will rope up and continue up the Class 4-5 crumbly rock over several pitches. The first 75 feet to the top of the "the nose" is often considered the most difficult in the climb. Keep an eye out for rockfall. Once on top, enjoy the views north of TFJ and Jefferson and south to the Sisters and Broken Top. Most parties will rappel down from the top. There are plenty of anchors around and many have lashing on them already but it is always wise to use your own gear as you don't know how long that has been up there. Take your time and stay safe!

Tips: The trailhead is located down the road from the Hoodoo Ski Resort. Take forest road 2690 south two miles to Big Lake. Just before the lake turn left onto the old Santiam Wagon Road (Forrest Service 500). In about half a mile you'll reach the intersection with the PCT. Start here. Use the GPS track to find the climbers trail off the PCT.