Mt. Hood Via South Side Timberline Approach

Please see attached photos to this POI for a topo profile of the climb as well as a Google Earth 3D image of the ascent route.

Timberline Lodge is a historic monument on Mt. Hood. You may recognize the outside of the building as the Overlook Hotel in the movie The Shining. If you have time after the climb I would highly suggest going inside to check out the beautiful interior.

For all climbers you must pick up a Wilderness Climbing Permit (it's free) near the tickets booths for the Timberline Ski Resort. You must carry the climbers permit with you at all times. Also, keep in mind that under state law you must carry a cell phone or location transmitter with you. If you don't and rescue is required you can be charged up to $500 for rescue services.

When freezing levels are low enough (so the snow won't be too mushy for the descent later in the day) you also have the option of buying a lift ticket for the Palmer Chair which will put you at 8,500 feet but the lift doesn't start until 8am which pretty late for a summit attempt on a warm day with rock fall hazard.

This climbers path is basically a beaten down snowcat path that is intended to keep climbers away from the Timberline ski slopes slightly to the west (climbers left). It isn't very steep and in late spring you can easily put on AT ski gear and skin up to the top of the Palmer lift. You start at about 5,800 feet and climb to 8,500 to the top of the Palmer Lift on this trail. It's a slow go, but if you got an early enough start you will see a beautiful sunrise to the East light up the mountain!

When you reach this point you have reached the upper limit of the Timberline Ski Resort and are level in elevation with the top of the Palmer Lift (8,500ft). From here on up to the summit you are on your own. I would suggest taking a break here to eat some snacks and refuel yourself for the climb. From here on up it gets steeper. If you haven't yet, this may be a good time to put on crampons and pull out the ice axe for stability. I personally enjoy hiking with ski or trekking poles. Take a look down at where you have come from, the cars should be starting to look pretty small!

Beautiful Illumination Rock lies to climbers left at this point. It is sometimes considered the most difficult technical summit in the entire Pacific Northwest. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLIMB IT! I have experienced friends who recently almost died climbing it! Take a look around at this point. You should be getting closer to Crater Rock above you and if it is windy keep pushing as the massive walls of Steel Cliffs to your upper right often serve as wonderful wind blocks once you get closer to the crater and Devil's Kitchen. If you have skis with you look around for some fun lines to ski in this area. One option (see videos on optional ski descent POI) is to ski far west banking up onto the lower slopes of Illumination rock before traversing far to skiers left again to return to the Palmer Lift.

These are the massive cliffs that stand tall above climbers to their right. Often they serve as wonderful wind blocks on sunny days. Directly below these cliffs is where the White River Glacier begins its descent down the mountain. Your aim should be to follow the beaten path to a small plateau marking the entrance to the crater and the fumaroles at Devil's Kitchen. This is where it may start to get smelly... trust me! Again.. take a look down... you've come a long ways!

This is an area of active fumaroles in the crater of Mt. Hood. Look around at all the steaming vents around you and take in that wonderful smell of rotting eggs (sulfur)! My favorite vent is one that is always steaming and clear of snow just on the backside of Crater Rock (see photo). With the sun rising behind Crater Rock and the steam rising against a blue sky it is truly remarkable.

Be cautious - these steaming vents are very interesting but please keep your distance as they are very dangerous and people have been known to suffocate by getting to close to them. Don't be surprised if you experience a slight headache from the fumes while in the crater area. This can be due to the altitude as well as the noxious fumes!

This is a very narrow ridge of snow that shifts up to many meters left or right each year. Near the top is a bergschrund (big crevasse) which needs to be negotiated with most climbers heading to climbers right of it up towards the Pearly Gates chutes.

At this point you have the option to head to climbers left up the Old Crater variation route which also brings you up to the summit slope or continue on the standard route towards two steep chutes which bring you up onto the summit as well. This is where most climbers get held up by others in front of them. It's decision time. Take a look at the conditions around you and make a decision which route you would like to take.

This is an area where it might be advisable to have a rope with you for the chutes if you are uncomfortable with heights. Many (including some dogs) make it up through the chutes easily without a rope but remember, it is always scarier coming down! Conditions in the chutes vary drastically throughout the year (and day). If you find yourself late in the morning on a hot sunny day you better have your helmet on because its pretty much a guarantee the the crappy volcanic rock or chunks of ice may be raining down on you (this is why an early cold climb is important).

Whatever you do, be polite! It is not proper to try to climb past others in the narrow chutes. Remember that if you fall you have crampons on which could seriously injure climbers below you. Give others their space and be courteous.

The top of Oregon at 11,239 feet. You've made it! To the north on a clear day you should see the flat top of Mt. St. Helens, the giant dome of Mt. Adams across the Columbia River and perhaps in the far distance Mt. Rainier! To the South you should see Mt. Jefferson and perhaps just over it's shoulder the Sisters volcanic complex.

Depending on the time of the year the summit may have many large cornices on it so please do not stray too close to the edge as you may find yourself on snow which is overhanging the incredibly steep northeast face of the mountain. If it collapses underneath you... well... it won't be fun, trust me (read: you will die).

Enjoy the summit for as long as you like or the weather permits but remember that the longer you wait the mushier the snow below will become in the sun and the more effort it will take to get back to the car (unless you were smart enough to leave skis at Crater Rock) :)

On the way down be very careful descending through the Pearly Gates chutes and again be very courteous to other climbers coming up through them. Some advice: turn around and face the mountain and climb down them carefully with your ice axe securely in the snow before taking another step down, face towards the ground, slowly and carefully! Once back down to the bottom of the Hogsback you will generally be out of the most danger for the climb.

A ski descent down Mt. Hood can be amazing, and in my opinion it is far better on the knees than trudging all the way back down over nearly 5,000 feet. Although some expert skiers descend from the summit a great option is to leave skis at Crater Rock below the Hogsback and descend from there. A great option is to ski far to the right towards Illumination rock for a better view of the giant basalt massif then head back far to skiers left to get back to the top of the Palmer lift.

I can't stress enough the importance of not skiing straight down the fall line as it will take you into Zig Zag canyon, far from the Timberline Resort and much closer to a possible mountain rescue situation (of you!). Once near Illumination Rock you will be skiing on the Zig Zag Glacier and must traverse far to skiers right to get back to the Palmer lift. Take a look at the GPS track in this guide and you will see how I had to walk back to POI 3 to get back on track. In the videos included you will notice that I do a lot of traversing to my left to get back to the ski resort. Please don't take this advice lightly as many have gotten lost descending deep into Zig Zag Canyon below.

I've included two helmet camera videos here to give you a perspective on what it is like to ski this area on a cold winter windy day, as well as to motivate those who are considering bringing skis. They are worth it! In the first video I ski from the base of the Hogsback down the face of Crater Rock and then I go visit Illumination Rock and then traverse far back towards the Palmer Lift which can be seen far below in the last frame. The second video is simply what it is like to ski below the Palmer Lift all the way back down to the lodge!