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Mt. Adams, Washington, United States

Mt. Adams Ski Mountaineering

Climb one of the Cascade giants in Washington State for a fantastic ski or board down over 6000 vertical feet.

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Difficulty: Difficult
Length: 10.6 miles / 17.1 km
Duration: Multiple days
 
Overview: Mt. Adams is one of the favorite volcanoes in the Cascade Range for those want to summit one of the bigger mountains of in Washington and ski down from the top. Due to its moderately sloped south face, it offers an outstanding ski run from the summit at 12276 ft to the snow's end at 6-7000 ft depending on the timing of the tour. The film and guide for the climb is now available as a DVD - see the resources section below on this page for more details

One caution: this is a real mountain. Despite its low terrain hazard risks of the south approach, there have been a number of injured and lost climbers on this route. The weather can turn quickly as on any major peak and climbers must be prepared to stay out overnight in some form of protection. Many skiers with a good deal of endurance will do this climb in a single long day, but often travel very light and consequently are gambling on good weather. I recommend a two day climb – to allow for more skiing and also to provide a cushion should the weather or snow conditions turn sour. The snow varies from frozen crust to perfect summer corn depending on your timing and fortune.


Tips: Essential ski mountaineering equipment - plan an overnight stay with full gear for cold weather. Crampons are recommended as the slopes can be treacherous if a hard freeze occurs during your climb. Skins may not needed as the climbing route offers good boot trails and firm snow in the July that allows for easy climbing with your skis on your pack. More resources and full HD 3D maps are available at Dr.Telemark.com.

Points of Interest

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Start of Tour

The climb starts from Cold Springs Campground at 5500 ft. In early season, you may have to hike up the last mile or two of the road if the snow is not fully melted out yet. From the camp, follow the summer trail north then slightly west toward the west edge of the Crescent Glacier.
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Crescent Glacier

Follow the trail (if not snow covered) to the snowfield just NW of the Crescent Glacier. Campsites are available along the west edge of the snowfield or in the center of Suksdorf Ridge ranging from 8000-9400 feet elevation.
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Lunch Counter

If you are doing the two day tour, set up camp then ski the snowfields in the afternoon sun. Lunch Counter is a common place for high camp for climbers but it may allow for more unencumbered skiing to camp lower on the ridge.
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South Face

Start the summit day early – by 6 or 7 AM if you want optimal skiing conditions. From 8000 feet it is a 4-5 hour climb depending on your pace and how well you do in the thinner air that resides above the false summit at Piker's Peak (11,657).
Head north from your camp up the south face of the peak and examine the snow coverage on your way up as this wide snowfield will be your descent route.
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False Summit

After you reach the false summit, you'll have another 600 feet to go, first a gradual climb across an old crater then up a short pitch to the summit ridge.

The alternative descent is the southwest chute. Instead of returning to the false summit, ski down off the summit ridge the bear right to the SW. The chute is a long continuous run that is steeper than the south face and takes you down lower than your campsite on the snowfield so only do this if you have carried out all of your gear. It is possible to cut across the base of the chute at 8000 ft elevation toward the left (east) and climb back up to the lower snowfield campsites to retrieve your gear.
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Summit of Mt. Adams

Enjoy the views of the entire Cascade Range for over 100 miles on clear days. There are two distinct descent options. The main route is to simply follow your climbing route. The snow will vary somewhat depending on the amount of consolidation that has occurred but often the best snow is on the face below the false summit. This pitch starts out as the steepest section of the descent in a relatively narrow space then rapidly opens into a wide run that is a delight for all levels of skiers and riders.


Once back to the camp sites, boot or ski down the ridge to the trail head depending on the coverage. In some years, the snow coverage is quite deep at elevations just above the trail head so good navigation skills are necessary not to get lost on descent when entering the trees.
Pictures in this guide taken by: drtelemark

Mt. Adams Ski Mountaineering Map


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About the Author

drtelemark
drtelemark
20 guides
view drtelemark's profile
Backcountry skier and videographer since 1987.

Mt. Adams Ski Mountaineering 3 Day Forecast

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