Maui's Upcountry for Foodies

In Hawaii, surfing is religion--even with goats! But that's not really why Surfing Goat Dairy has become such a magnet among visitors.

If you're coming to this "starting point" from West Maui, head toward Kahului. After passing Maalaea, you'll turn right on Kuihelani Highway (Highway 380). Take a right onto Puunene Avenue (Highway 311) and then a left onto Hansen Road. Just after a mile, you'll take a right onto Highway 370/Pulehu Road/Omaopio Road. Continue for about six miles, then bear left at the fork to stay on Omaopio Road until you come to the farm on the right side.

From South Maui, head toward Kahului and turn right onto Mokoulele Highway (Highway 311). Turn right onto Hansen Road and follow the directions above.

As you weave your way out of the sugarcane fields lining the slopes of Haleakala volcano, you come upon the lush green pastures of Hawaii's only award-winning caprine operation. Owned and operated by German expatriates Thomas and Eva Kafsack, the 42-acre working dairy has dedicated some two-thirds of its spread as pasture--giving its three bucks and more than 100 does plenty of space to roam and forage. After adapting many of their procedures to the Hawaiian climate and market, the Kafsacks eventually settled on producing a variety of cream cheeses and soft cheeses.

Casual tours of the operation are offered daily, with no reservations required. So it's great for a spontaneous itinerary. On Saturday you can catch two-hour Grand Dairy Tours, where you'll feed and milk a goat, watch the cheesemaking process and mingle with resident dogs, cats and a pot belly pig named Charlie.

Bust out your bread and spread on some of the 30 different gourmet goat cheeses that are available in the dairy's retail store. And top it off with gourmet goat cheese truffles. Best of all, you can order all of these goodies online after you've returned home!
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3651 Omaopio Rd., Kula
808-878-2870

Admission: Free

Hours: Mon–Sat: 9am–5pm
Sunday: 9am–2pm

After filling your belly with Surfing Goat Dairy delectables, you can hit the road to another hot spot with a totally different flavor. Work your way east to Highway 37 and head up the hill.

Resting at an elevation of roughly 4,000 feet, Alii Kula Lavendar Farm is home to some 55,000 lavender plants and 45 different varieties of lavender, olive trees, hydrangea and protea blooming on 10.5 acres. Cared for and created by agricultural artist and horticultural master Alii Chang, it's the first and only lavender lifestyle experience on Maui. Chang began to grow lavender on a whim when he was given a gift of a lavender plant. Look at how his whim has gone gangbusters!

On any given day, Chang can be found nurturing his flowerbeds and lavender fields with attention and charm. Daily walking tours include the history of lavender and its benefits, picking lavender and choice of a hot or cold lavender beverage. If for some strange reason you're hungry again, you can add a lavender gourmet picnic basket for an additional $1 onto tour prices. Long pants, long-sleeved shirt, closed-toe shoes and a hat are recommended, as are reservations.
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1100 Waipoli Rd., Kula
808-878-3004

Hours: Walking tours 9:30am, 10:30am, 11:30am, 1pm, 2:30pm
Admission: $12 per person

Heading up the mountain on Highway 37, Keokea is the last little town you'll hit before reaching Ulupalakua Ranch. There's a community park on the left and a few Mom & Pop stores on the right. The last of these is Grandma's Coffee House (153 Kula Hwy.). Where the road forks, bear to the right and remain on the main road for the next six miles. The road rambles and rolls over green hills, offering remarkable viewing down country to the ocean. In the springtime, stunning jacaranda trees add purple blossoms to the postcard setting, which have been the source of inspiration to painters and photographers alike. You'll know you've reached Ulupalakua when you see the huge, 100-year-old trees lining the roadway.

At the heart of Ulupalakua is Maui's Winery, on the historic grounds of Rose Ranch where King Kalakaua came to relax. Just beyond the Ulupalakua Ranch Store is clear signage for the tasting room. The gravel parking lot is on the left side, bordered by white fencing.

Visitors are invited to follow in the footsteps of alii (royalty) and paniolo (cowboys) on a walking tour of the grounds, narrated with aloha by winery staff. On the tour you'll learn about the winemaking process and how some of the original lava-rock buildings are now being used as winemaking facilities. You're also welcome to sample the fruit of the land in a complimentary tasting of both grape and pineapple wines--all made on Maui.

The gift shop offers a wide array of local merchandise, keepsakes and clothing, as well as Hawaii's famous wines. Across the street, the Ulupalakua Ranch Store serves up a tempting array of lunch fare featuring fresh Maui Cattle Co. beef and famous Ulupalakua elk burgers.

The consumable bounty at Tedeschi Winery definitely makes the journey worthwhile. The Valley Isle's sole commercial winery, Tedeschi boasts a varied selection of wines including sparkling, pineapple, grape and its coveted raspberry dessert wine.
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808-878-1266
Hours: 10am - 5pm
Admission: None

It's all downhill from here. While you may be leaving Ulupalakua, you're not leaving scenery behind. It just keeps hitting you with "wow" moments back down Highway 37 to Kula Botanical Garden that's a right turn onto Kekaulike Avenue (Highway 377).

Somewhat of a pioneer in ag-tourism at more than 40 years in the business, eight-acre KBG thrives with protea, orchids, bromelaids and native plants. Consider exploring at your own pace to enjoy the peace and tranquility that surround you. A self-guided tour on mostly paved paths takes about 45 minutes. Maps are available at the gift shop to help guide your walk, and plants are labeled along the way with their botanical name, common name and country of origin.

Also included in the garden is a collection of native Hawaiian plants. Children especially enjoy the Jackson Chameleon exhibit, native Nene geese and aviary. There's also a gift shop with made-in-Hawaii products and items of botanical interest. And in case you've worked off every other indulgence of the day, you can grab a snack and savor it on the garden's deck with its photo-worthy views.
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638 Kekaulike Ave., Kula
808-878-1715
Hours: Daily 9am - 4pm
Admission: Adults $10, Children 6-12 $3

Now it's decision time. If you're ready for dinner or just want a libation break, you're not far from two of Maui's top picks by residents and visitors alike. One is an Upcountry icon while the other is ocean all the way.

For Haliimaile General Store, just head down the hill (north) on Kula Highway (Highway 37) and turn right onto Haliimaile Road (Highway 371) for two miles. Haliimaile General Store will be on the left.

As chef/owner of Haliimaile General Store in Upcountry Maui, Joe's in Wailea and Gannon's Restaurant in Wailea, Bev Gannon is perhaps best known to foodies as one of the 12 original founders of the Hawaii regional cuisine movement that took local food to new heights in the 1990s. Gannon creates stylish, down-home menus bursting with island-fresh ingredients and flavors that define her particular style and personality. "Her food is as fun as she is," say many of her customers.

The recognition that Gannon has gained for her eclectic American fare with Asian overtones has earned Haliimaile General Store critical acclaim. Signature menu items include Kalua pork and goat cheese wonton appetizers, sashimi Napoleon from the raw bar, roasted beet and goat cheese terrine salad, and entrees like macadamia nut crusted fresh catch, grilled lamb chops and five-spiced duck breast.

Even if you're not starving for a full-blown meal when you're passing by this 23-year tradition, stop in to check out the to-die-for desserts.

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900 Haliimaile Rd., Makawao
808-572-2666
Hours: Monday through Friday 11am - 2:30pm and 5:30pm - 9pm

If you're jonzing for a sunset and beach setting since you've been away from your resort all day, then you'll want to hit Paia on the North Shore and head to Mama's Fish House.

While sailing across the Pacific in the late 1950s, the young Christenson family embraced the lifestyle of old Polynesia. In the process, they discovered the ways of preparing fish and living the aloha spirit. They settled on Maui in 1963 and opened Mama's--Maui's first fresh fish restaurant--a decade later.

Nestled in a beautiful coconut grove on a secluded white sand beach, this coveted beach house is a memory of old Polynesia on Maui's North Shore. Polynesian artifacts, unique local wood working, spectacular flower arrangements and original artwork define the classic interior that's worth a view even if you're not hungry. And an award-winning menu teamed with unpretentious genuine aloha service make this what's arguably one of Maui's most authentic dining experiences.

Daily fresh catches are described by who hauled in the particular type of fish and where--like "Ono Caught by Alan Cadiz Near the Towering Sea Cliffs of Molokai." Other dinner specialties include macadamia nut crusted pork tenderloin with poha berry sauce and sweet potato, and Maui Cattle Co. tenderloin steak with mushroom bordelaise sauce.
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799 Poho Place, Paia
808-579-8488
Hours: Open Daily 11am-3pm, 4:15pm-9pm