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Duncans Mills, California, United States

Lower Russian River Exploration

The Russian River originates in the redwood forests of Mendocino County and winds gently south through Sonoma County.

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Difficulty: Difficult
Length: 5.8 miles / 9.3 km
Duration: Half day
 
Overview:

Lower Russian River Paddle



"We go to the river's edge for comfort, spiritual renewal, meditation, solitude; we go to the river to feel and know the continuance of life."

- Henry David Thoreau

The Russian River has been a favorite destination for generations of San Franciscans looking to get away from the rolling chill of the seasonal fog. It’s also a popular get-away for inland Bay Area residents looking for a watery escape from the summer heat. But for people more familiar with the middle stretches of the river, venturing into the lower Russian River might offer a surprise or two.

Exploring the lower Russian River, from Duncans Mills to Jenner by the Sea, you are just as likely to meet animals such as North American River Otters, Harbor Seals or Pacific Pond Turtles as you are to see another person on the river. Bird lovers marvel as Barn Swallows zip by overhead, Osprey call from their nests and Great Blue Heron fish in the shallows.

It is also an excellent place to study the river’s ecology. Since all the runoff in the watershed, from pristine wilderness to agriculture and developed areas such as Santa Rosa, makes its way to and through this one spot, scientists can use the river as a living laboratory for how our human activities affect the water quality of the ecosystem.

It is an extraordinarily wild place in the backyard of the bustling Bay Area that we encourage you to explore. Leave nothing, take only photos and, as they say up the river, "Memories that linger."


Tips:

Getting There



Location and Directions to Duncans Mills & Jenner:

From Hwy 101 at Santa Rosa, CA

Take River Road Exit west to Russian River Resort Areas and Guerneville (go approx. 18 miles to Guerneville). At Guerneville continue straight on River Road / Hwy 116 for another 8 miles, past Monte Rio to Duncans Mills. (Jenner and the Pacific Coast is another 5 miles down river.)

Directions From Pacific Coast Hwy 1

Traveling North on Hwy 1, Cross the Russian River at Bridgehaven, make right onto Hwy 116 toward Russian River Resort Areas and continue upriver 4 miles to Duncans Mills. To get to Jenner, make a left after the bridge and travel up Coast Hwy 1 for one mile.

Boat Put-in & Take-out Locations



Public access to the Russian River is surprisingly limited. 95 percent of the entire watershed is private property. Professional river guides and outfitters can make arrangements for the start and finish your trek and can supply shuttle, and portage for your boats.

To explore the lower Russian River on your own, probably the most convenient place to put in your boat is at the Casini Ranch Family Campground, just across and up river from Duncans Mills. There is a $3 day-use fee. For more information contact: 1 (800) 451-8400 or E-mail: reservations@casiniranch.com

Take-out is at the Jenner boat launch near the Visitor Center in Jenner, CA, at the mouth of the Russian River, off HWY 1. There is no fee and ample parking is available.

Another option is doing our Exploration in reverse by putting in at the Jenner boat launch, and paddling up river to Duncans Mills.

River Guides and Boat Rentals



WaterTreks EcoTours & Jenner Kayak Rentals

Toll Free:1-888-865-2249

http://www.watertreks.com

We were guided on our Exploration by Suki Waters of WaterTreks EcoTours in Jenner, CA. Suki is a local guide, naturalist and kayak instructor whose roots in the area go back generations to her Native American ancestors. She has been working with the public in outdoor recreation, education and safety on The Russian River since 1979. WaterTreks provided us with kayaks and gear, as well as safety, expertise and fun company on the river.

Russian River Outfitters
1-877-775-2925

http://www.russianriveroutfitters.com
Kayak and Canoe rentals at Duncan’s Mills, CA. Russian River Outfitters can also provide experienced river guides and instruction, as well as a shuttle service and boat portage.

Clothing and Outfitting



If you don't have your own gear, your professional river guide or outfitter can supply boats, paddles, life vests, dry bags and other equipment you will need. You should plan to supply your own enthusiasm, curiosity and sense of adventure. The Russian River is classified as class 1 waterway, meaning it is mild. However winds, tide, and currents can be unpredictable. Kayaking is not without risk, it is highly recommended that everyone wear a personal flotation device.

Even in the summertime, the wind can come up and the fog will roll in on the coast. The lower Russian River can turn quite chilly, even when it is warm inland. You will get wet. It is recommended to wear layers and a waterproof outer shell. Cotton clothing is not recommended as it tends to hold water and pull heat from your body when soaked. Water wicking fleece or other material is best for warmth. Shoes, such as sport sandals, that won’t get waterlogged are suggested. Bring sun protection. And a good tip is to have a warm set of clothes to change into after your day on The River.

Food and Water



Keeping yourself fueled and hydrated is important You will be on the river for a few hours without access to resources. Bring water and some snacks packed in watertight bags or a small cooler.

Communications



Cell phone coverage is spotty at best in this section of the Russian River but it is still recommended that you keep a cell phone handy in case of emergencies.

Nearby Open Space Attractions



Sonoma Coast State Park
http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=451
"Long sandy beaches below rugged headlands, a craggy coastline with natural arches and secluded coves are features that make Sonoma Coast State Park one of California's most scenic attractions."

On the other side of The River from Jenner, is Sonoma Coast State Park. Mostly known for its beaches, one of the highlights for those who love the outdoors is Pomo Canyon. A former Pomo-Miwok trade route, this 3 mile hike takes you from the redwood glens near Willow Creek, up and over the grassy hillside and down to the coast at Shell Beach. It's considered by many to be one of the prettiest hikes in Northern California.

Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve
http://www.parks.ca.gov/default.asp?page_id=450

"The serene, majestic beauty of this Grove is a living reminder of the magnificent primeval redwood forest that covered much of this area before logging operations began during the 19th century."

Over 800 acres of magnificent Sequoia sempervirens, commonly known as the Coast Redwood are preserved near Guerneville, CA. Armstrong Grove is a favorite place to escape the heat of summer and bask in the shade of an old growth forest.

The ancient Coast Redwood is the tallest living thing in the world. Some coast redwoods are more than 2000 years old and tower over 350 feet. Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve offers self-guided nature trails, a visitor's center and a variety of picnic facilities. The tallest tree you’ll encounter in the park is called the "Parson Jones Tree" measuring more than 310 feet in height. The oldest tree here is the stately "Colonel Armstrong Tree," estimated to be over 1400 years old. It is named after a benevolent lumberman who chose to preserve this portion of the park in the 1870's.

For a trail map, see:

http://www.russianrivertravel.com/assets/parks/armstrongmap1.gif

Special thanks to Jenny Donovan and Rich Lawton of the California State Parks, Jessica Martini-Lamb of the Sonoma County Water Agency, as well as Michele Luna and Annie Cresswell from the Stewards of the Coast and Redwoods for assisting us on this project. And a special thanks to our guide, Suki Waters of WaterTreks EcoTours, for taking us on this wonderful paddle and showing us all that the Lower Russian River has to offer!

Points of Interest

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Putting In at the Russian River

95 percent of the Russian River watershed is private property and there are few public access points on the lower river. To duplicate our tour on your own, the best place to launch your boat is at Casini Family Campground in Duncans Mills, just upriver from our access point.

"The river delights to lift us free, if only we dare to let go. Our true work is this voyage, this adventure."

- Richard Bach

Suki Waters from WaterTreks Eco Tours in Jenner, California led our tour and arranged for us to put in at Duncans Mills. Suki is a local guide, naturalist and kayak instructor whose roots in the area go back generations to her Native American ancestors. She has been working with the public in outdoor recreation, education and safety on The Russian River since 1979. WaterTreks provided us with kayaks and gear, as well as safety, expertise and fun company on The River.



- The Russian River is one of the most popular canoe and kayaking rivers in the country. While most of the traffic is up river in the warmer areas around Healdsburg and between the towns of Forestville and Guerneville, the lower stretch of the river is less developed and wilder. (Photo provided by Rich Lawton)

"Believe me, my young friend, there is NOTHING-- absolutely nothing-- half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats."

-Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows
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Nesting Ospreys on the Russian River



In this video, our guide Suki Waters takes us to visit the Osprey (Pandion haliaetus), sometimes known as the sea hawk. (Additional photos provided by Suki Waters, George Scott Zastrow Photography, USGS, and the Army Corps of Engineers.)

Ospreys (Pandion haliaetus), migrate to South America in the winter and return to the same nests in the spring. In the 1950s and 60s their numbers declined dramatically due to the thinning effects of DDT on their egg shells. Since the late 1970s, they have rebounded along the Russian River and their calls can now be heard all summer long.

Dad returns to check in on the growing family and then heads back out to hunt for fish. Osprey mate for life and share parental duties raising one to four chicks per year.

Osprey nest in a commanding place on top of broken tree over the Russian River. An Osprey flies overhead on her way to catch a fish for her growing brood.

"Indeed the river is a perpetual gala, and boasts each month a new ornament."

- Ralph Waldo Emerson, Nature

The Quest team scans the treetops for osprey and heron nests. (Photo provided by Rich Lawton)

"The trees reflected in the river -- they are unconscious of a spiritual world so near to them. So are we."

- Nathaniel Hawthorne

Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias) nest in the lower branches of the trees close to the water. Although much bigger than osprey, blue heron nests are smaller and more concealed. (Photo provided by George Scott Zastrow Photography)
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North American River Otters

One of the most charismatic animals on the Russian River, the fun-loving North American River Otter (Lontra canadensis) has come back from the brink of extinction. Playful and inquisitive, this member of the weasel family is highly adaptable and nearly as comfortable on land as it is in the water. (Photo provided by Suki Waters)

Excellent hunters, River Otters on the Russian River dine on fish, crayfish, clams, frogs, snakes, and even rodents and waterfowl. Being high in the river food chain, their success is a good indicator of a healthy aquatic ecosystem. (Photo provided by Suki Waters)

Western Pond Turtles, also known as the Pacific Pond Turtle, (Actinemys marmorata) is a small to medium-sized turtle. (this one being on the larger size) They are fairly common on the Russian River but shy and hard to spot. They usually like to sun themselves on exposed logs. Keep a keen eye, paddle lightly and coast in, and you may be able to catch a closer glimpse before they plop into the water.

Bobcats (Lynx rufus) appear prominently in Native American folklore and can occasionally be seen along the riverbanks, particularly the area of the Russian River estuary. Reclusive predators, they are about twice as large as a domestic cat and are recognized by their gray spotted fur, white sideburn whiskers and stubby tail, which give them their name. (Photo provided by Suki Waters)

Once hunted to near extinction, American Mink (Neovison vison), can now be seen on the riverbanks of the Russian River. Mink are semi aquatic predators with long slender bodies, short legs and partially webbed feet, which make them excellent swimmers. Related to otters, they can dive under water to hunt for fish, crayfish, and frogs. They can also capture terrestrial prey like birds, snakes and rodents. (photo provided by Suki Waters)

Garter snakes (genus Thamnophis) are very adaptable and are found throughout the Russian River watershed. They are very capable swimmers that feed on worms, insects, lizards, rodents, amphibians and, as we can see, small fish. (photo provided by Suki Waters)
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Quest on the Russian River

"The Sun shines not on us but in us. The Rivers flow not past, But through us…"
- John Muir

12 data stations have been installed in the estuary to measure water temperature, oxygen levels, salinity and bacteria levels in the lower river. Scientists are also testing for pharmaceuticals, heavy metals and waste water residue in the estuary. (Photo provided by SCWA)

- Every three weeks biologists from the Sonoma County Water Agency use seine nets to gather, count, measure and identify fish in the Russian River. Scientists have also installed a funnel shaped trap called a Fyke net to capture fish as they swim down stream. This trap is checked daily and fish are identified, measured and released. (Photo provided by SCWA)

Every three weeks biologists from the Sonoma County Water Agency use seine nets to gather, count, measure and identify fish in the Russian River. Scientists have also installed a funnel shaped trap called a Fyke trap to capture fish as they swim down stream. This trap is checked daily and fish are identified, measured and released (Photo provided by SCWA).

A wider view of the Fyke net trap configuration. (Photo provided by SCWA)
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The Dynamic Russian River Estuary



In this video, our river guide, Suki Waters, gives us a tour of the Russian River estuary and explains what makes this place such a dynamic ecosystem. Additional photos provided by Suki Waters and George Scott Zastrow Photography.

"The face of the river, in time, became a wonderful book . . . which told its mind to me without reserve, delivering its most cherished secrets as clearly as if it had uttered them with a voice. And it was not a book to be read once and thrown aside, for it had a new story to tell every day."
- Mark Twain

The Russian River Tule Perch, (Hysterocarpus traskii pomo), is the only genetically endemic (biologically native) fish in the Russian River. It is currently listed as a species of "special concern" by the California Department of Fish & Game. Tule Perch are the only native freshwater fish that gives birth to live young and is the only freshwater species in the Surfperch family. (Photo provided by SCWA)

Over 50 species of fish, both saltwater and freshwater species have been identified in the Russian River estuary. Salmon, tule perch, starry flounder, American shad and even Bay pipefish (Syngnathus leptorhyncus) , a cousin of the seahorse, can be found here. The estuary is a vital nursery for young steelhead as they grow and adapt to saltwater before entering the ocean. (Photo provided by SCWA)
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Bald Eagle

Bald Eagles (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) have only recently returned to the Russian River after being nearly unseen over the last half-century. Decimated in this area by the effects of the pesticide DDT, their return to the estuary may be a sign that the health of the river ecosystem is improving. There are known nesting pairs in the Willow Creek area at and upriver near the town of Sebastopol. (Photo provided by Suki Waters)

The Double-crested Cormorant (Phalacrocorax auritus) tends to stay near fresh water. It mainly feeds on small fish and hunts by swimming and diving. Its feathers are not waterproof so it must dry them and preen after spending time in the water.

Here an agile Belted kingfisher (Megaceryle alcyon) flies by our boats on its way to its nest after hunting along the river.

The Brown Pelican (Pelecanus occidentalis) was listed as endangered but have made a comeback. They can often be seen near the mouth of the Russian River, hunting in the estuary or along the coastline. (Photo provided by Suki Waters)

The lower Russian River is a bird watching paradise. Barn Swallows buzz by our boats, Steller's Jays cackle in the bay trees. Eagles, hawks and turkey vultures circle above. Wood Ducks, Mallards and mergansers paddle along. Here a Green Heron (Butorides virescens) waits patiently for its lunch. (Photo provided by Suki Waters)

One of the most highly visible birds along the river is the Snowy Egret (Egretta thula). This small all-white heron hunts in the shallows looking for small fish, amphibians, crustaceans and insects. While they were once over-hunted for their long white plumage, they are now protected in the in the United States by law, under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act, and their population has rebounded. (Photo provided by Suki Waters)
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Harbor Seals

Marine Mammals are protected under the Marine Mammal Protection Act. This law prohibits people from harassing or disturbing marine mammals. Whether on land or in a boat, stay at least 100 yards away from the resting harbor seals in the rookery.

The Harbor Seal or Common Seal (Phoca vitulina), is a true seal that is abundant at the mouth of the Russian River. An adult can grow as long as 6 feet, making them much smaller than elephant seals and California sea lions. Brown, tan, or gray, and often speckled, they are at home in the coastal kelp forests but not very agile on land.

Harbor Seals are found along the entire California coastline. They tend to be site faithful and prefer to remain relatively close to shore. The harbor seals at the Russian River use the estuary as a safe place to breed, birth their pups, rest and feed. They will sometimes venture far up river, either hunting for fish or maybe just exploring the river as we are.

Harbor Seals and occasionally sea lions and elephant seals use the sandbar at the mouth of the river near Jenner as a "haul-out" The area has been monitored for 30 years providing biologists a large and vital data set regarding seal population and health.

Harbor seals rest at the mouth of the Russian River where the river meets the sea.

"Rivers know this: there is no hurry. We shall get there some day."
- A. A. Milne, Pooh's Little Instruction Book

(Photo provided by George Zastrow)
Pictures in this guide taken by: craigrosa, Rich Lawton, George Scott Zastrow Photography, Suki Waters, SWCA

Lower Russian River Exploration Map


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About the Author

craigrosa
craigrosa
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Hi. I'm a Senior Interactive Producer for KQED in San Francisco, CA on the program QUEST, which covers...

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