Krkonose Ice Climbing

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Krkonose: Snezne jamy

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Difficulty: Difficult
Length: 6.2 miles / 10.0 km
Duration: Full day

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Overview: Ice climbing was officially allowed in one place in the Krkonoše mountains, the lower part of Labský Důl. It is permitted since 2011 and is expected to be prolonged on yearly basis. Only 16 climbers are allowed and you have to book free of charge on a website. In the morning you need to pick up a written permission on the way.
Don’t forget to take also cross country ski. There is about 10 km trip in front of you ideal for cross country skiing.

Tips: You need freezing and simultaneously wet weather before ice climbing. Sometimes there is enough of ice in December, but usually not. In 2012 we had to wait until end of February.
Do not underestimate the Krkonoše icefalls, you need two ice axes, ice crampons, climbing binding, rope, ice screws and carabineers. If you are not experienced, you may climb with the rope from the top. Then you need 60 meter long rope. A common practice is to take two 40 meter ropes.
After being in touch with the ice for a couple of hours, you will appreciate two sets of worm cloves and a bottle of hot tea. Take a mobile phone, there is a perfect signal.
Optional: cross country skies, ski wax.

Points of Interest

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Preparation

Book your climbing trip a couple of days in advance on the web site. You need to provide your name, date and place of birth. See http://ledopad.krnap.cz/rezervace.php .

Other Resources
Booking page of KRNAP

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Parking

The start point is the town Špindlerův Mlýn, located about 150 km NNE from Prague. In Špindlerův Mlýn park your car in Medvědín parking, free. After you leave your car, continue along the road towards Špindlerova Bouda.
Do not cross the river Labe. There is a nicer way for skiers behind the river, but you need to get the written permission.

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Getting Climbing Permission

The office is open since 8:30 (as of 2012). The current opening times may be double checked on the web site(http://ledopad.krnap.cz/kontakty.php). Go into the building and ask for the permission. It will be issued free. However, you need to book in advance on the internet

Other Resources
KRNAP office

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Divci Lavky

After getting the permission continue along the road to the first big cross road Dívčí Lávky near the chalet Myslivna. Turn to the left on the junction and go to the river and cross it. You will pass the chalet Myslivna here.

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Buď Fit Track - Start

Just after crossing the river Labe you are on the start of the cross country tract Buď Fit. It is professionally maintained – often. From this point there is 4 km track in front of you along Labe up.

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Along The River Labe

Follow the river and count the markers each kilometer. There is beautiful nature, from the tourist point of view.

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Buď Fit Track - End

You have reached the end of the Buď Fit track. Tourists are not allowed to continue up to Labská Bouda due to frequent snow avalanches. But this is not our case, we will also not continue along the summer path. We leave all the ways and go to the forest.

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Crossing The River

Labe, one of the biggest European river, is a small stream here. However, depending on the weather, water level and snow condition it is sometimes tricky to cross it just by stepping the stones and wooden logs. Some climbers hide their skies before this exercise and keep only ski poles with them.

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Approaching The Icefall

After crossing Labe, you probably find foot prints of other climbers. You may also gain of having gpx file downloaded in your GPS unit. A gpx file is attached to this guide.

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Main Sector

The main icefall is about 25 meters high. There are plenty of security points on the top made from big trees. On busy days there are up to 4 ropes operating simultaneously.
If you have no screws or lack of experience or simply the ice quality does not encourage you to climb from the bottom, do not hesitate to walk to the top from the right hand side of the wall. You may reach the top horizontal big tree on foot.

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Left sectors

Apart from the main sector there are other smaller icefalls on the left. Not all of them were suitable for climbing in 2012. Following the rules issued by the officials, there should be at least 30 cm of ice on the wall.

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The Way Back

You take the same way to get back to your car. After you go through Biď Fit tract (now much faster, it’s downhill), continue along the right bank of the river until the bottom lift station Medvědín, where you can cross the bridge to the parking place.

Pictures in this guide taken by: AleP

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