Over the years, Half Dome has been called Tissiack, South Dome, Cleft Rock and the Rock of Ages. Half Dome covers about 17 football fields in acreage, so find a quiet spot away from the crowds and imagine what it was like for George Anderson or John Muir. When you are ready to explore, the curved western dome reveals wildflowers and rock formations. Camping ended in 1992 because of human impact. There are no toilets up top and the rare Mt. Lyell salamander lives under the rocks. Campers would move the rocks to build wind breaks and impact the animal.
On the north-eastern side, be careful near the face as there may be wall climbers coming up, so please don’t toss anything over the side. Near the apex is the "Visor," a popular photo spot. This is erroneously often called the “Diving Board.” Although there are a few rocks that jut out, the true Diving Board is on the lower north-western side of Half Dome and is where Ansel Adams took his famous black and white photos of the rock.
If you look closely at the Visor, you will see a rock jumble cave. In 1985, five young men took refuge there during a night storm. Lightning struck twice inside the cave. One died immediately from the shock and one went into convulsions and exited the cave but fell over the edge. Two suffered major injury due to the electricity passing thru their bodies. Get down if there is even a slight hint of a storm. Remember, the cables are steel and conduct electricity.
You’ll see many interesting things up top. On one trip I was able to film a man proposing to his fiancé on the Visor. (See the video at POI 19.) Marmots and squirrels can actually climb up Half Dome! The yellow–bellied marmot can grow up to five pounds. Please do not feed these cute critters. Once we leave they will not be prepared to forage for food.
Let’s take a visual look at the great view from nearly a mile above the Valley.
1. The Valley – Yosemite Valley spans 7 miles from the entrance near Bridalveil Fall. From this vantage it is easy to see how the three major glacier periods created the shapes we see today. It was from near Bridalveil Fall (hidden around to the left) that the Mariposa Battalion first laid eyes on Yosemite in 1851. As you look to the west you can make out the haze of the great San Joaquin Valley, breadbasket to much of the world. The first whites tried to keep many of the Indian names for the majestic sights but they were just too hard for the Anglos to master, so the names we have today stuck. The rock you are standing on now was called "Tissiack" by the Indians. Legend tells us that an Indian woman named Tissiack was walking in the valley near Mirror Lake when she and her husband began fighting. The spirits were displeased and turned him into North Dome and her into Half Dome. You can see a cameo of a woman on the face of the rock. The name “Yosemite” comes from what the whites thought was the name of Indians who lived in the valley. A loose interpretation was “killers of grizzlies” and the Mariposa Battalion used that name.
2. El Capitan – It is fittingly named to represent the power of the rock itself. Known to the Indians as "To-tock-ah-noo-lah," their legend has it that one day two bear cubs were playing in the area and a huge rock began to rise up to the sky. Soon the bears were alone at the top of the 3,500 foot wall. The other animals could not get up to them until an inch worm slowly made its way to the top. He was too late and the bears starved but he brought back a rib bone to prove he made it. Today El Capitan is a mecca for big wall climbers who scale the face taking several days. In 1958 it was first scaled by Warren Harding, Wayne Merry and George Whitmore in 47 days. On November 6, 2010, Dean Potter and Sean Leary set the current record at 2 hours, 36 minutes and 45 seconds. On June 24, 2010, Alex Honnold climbed Half Dome - then El Cap in 8 hours!
3. Glacier Point – Rising 3,000 feet above the valley, Glacier Point is accessible on foot via the Four-mile trail, the Panorama trail or by car or bus off of Hwy 41. It has the best all-encompassing views of Yosemite Valley, Tenaya Canyon, Half Dome, Vernal and Nevada Falls. It was the site of the famous "Firefall," a spectacle that was held from 1872 to 1968. Burning embers were pushed over the edge to the cheers of visitors during the season at 9 pm. The only exception was when John Kennedy was staying at the Ahwahnee and was not ready then. In January 1968, George Hertzog, Director of the National Park Service, ordered that the Firefall be discontinued. The Firefall was a man-made event, which detracted from National Park Service policy of encouraging appreciation of natural wonders. He said that if people wanted to see something like that, they could go to Disneyland. Also, auto traffic increased each night as a stream of cars crowded the campgrounds and meadow areas where people jockeyed to get the best views. Crime soared when empty tents were raided. The Glacier Point Hotel and McCauley’s Mountain House both provided spectacular views from the top until they burned in 1969.
4. The Ahwahnee – The Ahwahnee Hotel is at the east end of the valley and is a 5-star lodge. It was named in honor of the true name of the Indians that the Mariposa Battalion first met. They were the Awhaneechee. It loosely means “those who lived in the place of the gaping mouth” (the Valley). The hotel was the brainchild of the first NPS Director, Steven Mather. He knew that for the park to succeed financially it would need a luxury hotel in keeping with the grandeur of Yosemite. The hotel was opened to the public in 1927 at a cost of $1.5M.
5. Curry Village - In 1899, David Curry opened a tented camp at the east end of the valley so that visitors could enjoy the beauty of Yosemite for a modest price. David was an outspoken man who greeted guests as they arrived and wished them a bellowing “Farewell” as they left. Camp Curry offered "a good bed and clean napkin with every meal" for just $2 a day. He orchestrated a ritual at the Firefall as he yelled: “Let the Fire Fall!”
6. Tenaya Canyon – At your feet is the rugged Tenaya Canyon. Running to the northeast, it is a hazardous place with smooth granite walls carved by glacial action. Hiking it is dangerous and not advised. Far to the north is Tenaya Lake, named in honor of the old chief of the Ahwaneechee.
7. Cloud’s Rest – The sharp peak to the right of Tenaya Canyon is Cloud's Rest. The hike to the top takes about seven hours round trip if you start at the Tenaya Lake trailhead. There are plenty of water sources enroute. The hike up the spine is harrowing since it is only several feet wide. Upon arriving at the top of the nearly 10,000 foot peak, one can gaze down at the cable route of Half Dome.
8. Mt Dana – Far out to the horizon lies Mt Dana, the second highest peak in Yosemite at over 13,000 feet. (Mt Lyell is higher.) Mt. Dana is named after James Dana, a 19th century geologist who made important contributions to the geologic understanding of the Sierra Nevada. It is also known for having a small receding glacier at its summit as does Mt Lyell.
9. Merced Canyon – Looking back towards the cables you can see the vast Merced Canyon. The Merced River is fed from rain and melting snows in the higher elevations the flow to Merced Lake and feeder streams to the south. A High Sierra Camp is located next to the lake.
10. Other interesting information about Half Dome:
* Royal Robbins, Mike Sherrick, and Jerry Gallwas were the first to climb the nose of Half Dome in 1957. Robbin's wife, Liz, was the first woman in 1967. View a video interview with Royal in POI 19. His autobiography is coming out in 6 volumes and can be found at www.royalrobbinsthebook.com/
*Alex Honnold free soloed Half Dome in 2008 - in uner 3 hours.
* Ryan Ghelfi and Ricky Gates have run the entire Half Dome hike, each in 2 1/2 hours. View an interview with Ryan in POI 19.
* Close to 50,000 people a year hike to the summit. Hundreds more come up the face.
* Since 1919 only 2 hikers have fallen to their death when the cables are in their summer season position. One was weather related and in the other fatigue and dehydration played a roll. 2 women died when rapelling the cables during the off season when the rock was wet.
* In 1877 Selah Walker took the first known photograph on the top of Half Dome. It was a fuzzy shot of George Anderson.
* In 1915, Albert C. Pillsbury led a group of 17 Stanford students up the backside of Half Dome. He took photos and motion pictures. The students also carried wood up and at midnight lit a huge bonfire and shoved embers over the face, resembling the then-famous Glacier-Camp Curry “firefall.”
11. Descending the Cables: After about 45 minutes you will be ready to hike back. Stretch and pack up. Many people face downhill. I do not recommend this as you will have to look at the scary rock below you and your body’s center-of-gravity will be rocking you forward. Also, all your body weight will be on your wrists. A good way to go down the cables is to face slightly uphill and go down in a repelling fashion; just as you went up. The people coming up will gladly lean over so you can get by. They are pretty tired. Let the cable slide on your gloves. If you have to descend on your butt, do it! Next comes the Sub Dome. Be careful of your footing and use your hiking poles and descend like a mountain goat. 4 points of contact. Don’t be tempted to run or cross-cut trails. The gravel surface of the trail can cause you to slip if you aren’t careful.
From here the hike is as you saw it going up, so we will next meet at Nevada Fall. Get water at the Little Spring and use your hiking poles to ease knee stress. You will not make much better time going down due to the loose gravel and unsteady rock trail. When you arrive at the JMT/Mist Trail junction, continue over to Nevada Fall and return via the JMT unless darkness is approaching.