Goldegg village, Austria

'Bad' only in the sense that that is the German word for a swimming lake, otherwise this is a superb part of the walk in any season.

Dubbed the 'romantic lake' by locals, in summer swimmers gather on the grassy banks, while in winter part of the circuit is used by cross-country skiers.

Join the trail by heading down the lane at the side of the Der Seehof hotel that leads to their carpark. Everything is well marked as you keep heading towards the lake.

As you complete the lake circuit, you'll pass Schloss Goldegg. Parts of this castle date back to the 14th century and its ownership followed the fortunes of various Salzburg noble families and archbishops until it became privately owned in the 1850s.

It was bought by the Goldegg municipality in 1973 and transformed, after much renovation, into a cultural centre and conference venue. It has a small museum, but most of the interior is not open to the public. The best way to see inside is to attend a classical music concert - with a bit of luck you'll get the Knights Hall whose timber ceiling is decorated with 130 coats of arms in a show of local aristocratic history.

Check the website (see link in 'other resources') for events listings.

After leaving the lake circuit, you turn right through the village and the path to Boden appears on the left after the last houses. It can be a bit tricky to spot in winter so keep an eye on your GPS at this point. If you pass under some power lines, you've gone too far.

This section is a mixture of field paths and country roads winding through a mountain valley and occasional clumps of forest. You won't have to move aside for cars too often - we only encountered three when we did this trail in winter.

You'll come into the small hamlet of Boden just after passing a small lake, Bondl See. The lake is a good spot to stop for a picnic lunch in summer, but in the colder months the warm interior of the nearby guesthouse, Gasthof Seeblick, will be more attractive.

The food is simple and the staff are friendly - which is helpful if you are an English-only speaker facing a German menu. (You can't keep eating schnitzel because it's the only word you recognise.) We had a couple of friends with a smattering of German but I'm sure we would have muddled through OK with the help of a phrase book.

The road leaving Boden skirts around a forested hill. It's a peaceful stroll in winter, although it can get a bit icy in patches where the water runs off from the slopes above. Although the up side of this is that it creates a collection of mini frozen waterfalls.

The return route back to Goldegg passes through the farming villages of Buchberg, Maierhof and Altenhof. Like the previous roads on this trail, you are not going to be bothered too much by traffic other than the occasional tractor.

This is picturesque farm country with European alp background. The hamlets you pass through are not the 'chocolate box' variety you find in tourist precincts but that isn't what this area is all about. That's not to say that Goldegg is beyond a little traditional decoration. As you arrive back, look out for the finely crafted iron work on some of the hotel and shop signs.

This is an added attraction outside winter - easy walking distance from the village.

Accommodation in Goldegg is a mixed bag, but after comparing notes with six other visitors I couldn't recommend this place highly enough. It's an eclectic mix of modern style and old fashioned hunting lodge.

The excellent restaurant focuses on local produce, and if you have never tried Austrian wines this is the place to do it. Staff have limited English but I'll give them 10/10 for effort. When we stayed here, they would painstakingly produce a translated written summary of the evening menu for us each day - it's the little touches!

Even if you don't stay here, drop in after the walk for the superb cakes at afternoon tea, or the terrace overlooking the lake is a great spot for a weiss beer (wheat beer).

Telephone: +43 (0)6415 8137-0