Going Jurassic

Getting there is part of the fun on this walk. Take the Davidson Road exit off HWY 101 at the south end of the park. The road in traverses low coastal hills through recovering second growth spruce, fir, and redwood forests.

The road is primarily a well-graded former dirt logging road heading out to the coast which is easily passable in any two wheel drive car. Much of it is narrow with plenty of blind curves so drive it carefully, keeping an eye out for R/Vs and zealous drivers. You'll eventually hit an entrance kiosk at the southern end of the coastline.

Follow Beach Road north along the park's coastal frontage. The road will be tucked along the base of cliffs, canyon entrances and the beach lands. It's a nice drive in with stunted forest, marsh, and grasslands between the road and the ocean. There's also a couple of trails that beg exploration and the well-developed Gold Bluffs Beach Campground, which is located midway to the Fern Canyon Trail Head.

After the campground expect a few creek crossings. They're shallow and can be easily crossed in 2 wheel drive.

Lastly, keep an eye open for Roosevelt Elk. They frequent the meadows along the road.

Fern Canyon's parking area and trail head is at the end of the road. There's room for quite a few cars, a restroom, and access to the meadows, beaches, Fern Canyon, and segments of the California Coastal Trail.

The Fern Canyon Trail is at the northeast corner of the parking lot. It begins as a paved multi-use trail. Dogs are not allowed here. This trail head also provides access to a number of additional trails and campgrounds within the park.

Near the trail head are a number of informational signs providing a preview of what's in store in the canyon. From here it's about .1 miles to the canyon.

The trail follows the base of the bluffs along the beach meadows. Eventually it enters a forested area with the undergrowth progressively becoming very lush.

A bench along the trail looks out toward the coast and Fern Canyon creek outflow meadow.

Along the way, numerous springs can create boggy conditions along the trail.

Nearing the entrance to Fern Canyon the trail passes over a series of portable footbridges and the canyon creek outflow.

After crossing the creek, Fern Canyon begins to open up ahead. The view from here is absolutely breathtaking.

Come prepared to walk through a shallow creek in places. You may even want to bring some dry socks for later.

The canyon beyond the mouth is narrow and generally steep to vertically-sided. Most of it is 50 feet-deep, though the surrounding forest cover above makes it look even deeper.

From here, the Fern Canyon Trail is a walking/hiking trail only.

Remember Jurassic Park 2: The Lost World? A number of scenes were filmed in this canyon. The BBC also used this location in its series, Walking with Dinosaurs.

The California Coastal Trail heads North from here and continues to a walk-in campground: Ossagon Trail Camp.

Several other major trails can be accessed from this point as well and include:
James Irvine Trail to Park HQ 4.5 miles
Friendship Ridge Trail
Clintonia Trail 1.8 miles

Look for the marked trail head just on the north side of the creek crossing at the canyon mouth. The Coastal Trail up to Ossagon is a Hike/Bike trail.

Additionally, in this area is the return loop trail head for the Fern Canyon Trail. It heads inland along the clifftop of the Canyon's North side.

The canyon quickly narrows up with the sides becoming quite vertical. Periodically the winter rains flood and scour the floor, leaving behind shattered limbs and tree trunks.

The entire canyon floor becomes the trail. Feel free to wander around, taking in the fern foliage. If you're a parent with a wicked sense of humor, have the kids watch Jurassic 2 before bringing them here. Keep them on the lookout for the "Compies".

The dense ferns blanketing the canyon include:
Western Sword Fern (Polystichum munitum)
Licorice Fern or Sweet Root (Polypodium glycyrrhiza)
California polypody (Polypodium californicum)
Deer Fern (Blechnum spicant)
California Maidenhair (Adiantum jordanii)

A moderately easy-to-miss sign directs the hiker to a small trail and steps up the northerly side of the canyon. Beyond that, the canyon transitions to a more typical open stream that's packed with heavy vegetation.

Heading up the trail will be a series of stairs and a twisting trail. The vegetation dries out, quickly transitioning to Spruce and Alder. Near the top will be the first views overlooking the canyon and across the other side. This would be the first spot one can see any distance since entering the Canyon Trail.

Friendship Ridge Trail to the West Ridge Trail.

Continuing on, the trail winds gently through the mixed Spruce/Alder forest, periodically crossing small streams and springs.

A side trail heading southerly toward the canyon. This trail is marked by steps down a short grade that lead to a meadow.

Crossing the meadow via the most worn foot trails will lead you to the canyon overlooks. Across the meadow are also a couple of springs with boggy areas.

Keep in mind, there are no safety rails at the cliff edges and the drop here is vertical. At points along the cliff edge the ground can be weak.

On this visit there was ample evidence of Elk using the meadow but they weren't present. Keep well clear of them if they are using the meadow, especially if children are present. I also encountered ticks here in the grass.

When done, backtrack to the trail junction.

A boardwalk forms a significant portion of the trail ahead, and a large bog and spring area flows through. This would correspond to a portion of the canyon with small waterfalls.

After the boardwalk the trail begins a downgrade to return toward the mouth of Fern Canyon.

Overlooking the mouth of Fern Canyon.

Close the loop and return to the canyon mouth.

The trail returns to the canyon mouth. Simply follow the trail back out to the parking area.