Fort Sill Historical Route

Hiking in Oklahoma

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Martha Songbird Nature Trail

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Difficulty: Moderate
Length: 3.2 miles / 5.2 km
Duration: Full day

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Overview: There are many historical sites to be seen if you are visiting Fort Sill Oklahoma. Today, the fort is the only active military post located on the South Plains that was built during the Indian Wars. On the post you can visit historical markers denoting area where figures such as General Custer and General Sheridan once camped. There are also grave sites of many famous Native American's who lost their lives in battle. The most famous being Geronimo who has his own burial site north of the main post cemetery.

Today the post hosts schools for the modern field artillery units. The post is also one of the sites where future soldiers receive their initial basic training. Another special detachment is the Field Artillery Half Section, an eight-man group representative of the "flying artillery" which was drawn by a team of horses around the turn of the last century. The Half Section was established in 1969 to celebrate Fort Sill's Centennial. The Soldiers are volunteers for the show group, while the horses, their equipment and transportation are provided through charitable donations. The popular Half Section has appeared in regional parades, local festivities, tons of changes of command and a presidential inauguration parade.

Tips: Fort Sill is a 'closed' post. In order to gain access you must show a valid military photo Identification Card. If you are driving into Fort Sill you must show proof of your current driver's license, state vehicle registration, and proof of insurance. You must register your vehicle on post as soon as possible after you sign in.

Directions to the field artillery museum:

From East I-44, take exit 41 toward Ft. Sill/Key Gate. Turn right onto Sheridan Road then take the first right onto Randolph Rd. Travel one block north, over a set of railroad tracks, and make a left onto Harry Rd. Ignore the road labeled Howitzer Trail; this is not a road for vehicles. The museums parking area will be on the right.

The field artillery museum is free to visit.

Directions to the Martha Songbird Trail:

From East I-44, take exit 41 toward Ft. Sill/Key Gate. Turn right onto Sheridan Road and then turn left onto Boundary Road, stay on Boundary Road for .5 miles, next take the 1st left onto Corral Road for .5 miles, finally turn right onto Randolph Road and travel .6 miles.

Directions to White Wolf River Park and Zoo:

From East I-44, take exit 41 toward Ft. Sill/Key Gate. Turn right onto Sheridan Road for 4.5 miles and the make a right onto Currie Rd, continue down Currie road which will turn into Apache Gate Rd. Cross over the White Wolf River via the bridge and make a left on Punch Bowl Road. The park will be on your left.

Directions to Geronimo's Grave:

From East I-44, take exit 41 toward Ft. Sill/Key Gate. Turn right onto Sheridan Road and then another right onto Geronimo Rd, towards the field artillery museum. Next take a left onto Macomb Road, travel down Macomb Road past the museum for 3 miles until you come to the Martha Songbird trail. Make a right onto Quinette Road and follow the road for 5-6 miles. You will pass by the post golf course followed by the Quinette River. Once past the river continue on the road until you pass over I-44, the graveyard will be on your right.

Hours of operation:

Tuesday-Sunday from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., except on selected holidays

All other trails and sites are open from dawn to dusk

Amenities:

-On Post Commissary and numerous restaurants
-Restrooms can be found inside the museum, additional
restrooms are inside the shops and stores.
-Portable restrooms are located near the entrance to the
Martha Songbird Trail.

Points of Interest

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Ft. Sill Welcome Sign

Fort Sill is a 'closed' post. In order to gain access you must show a valid military photo Identification Card. If you are driving into Fort Sill you must show proof of your current driver's license, state vehicle registration, and proof of insurance. You must register your vehicle on post as soon as possible after you sign in.

This is the Key gate which can be access from the I-44 H.E. Bailey Turnpike.

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Spartan 1st Stage

In 1965, developed of the Spartan, a long range, more powerful version of the Zeus missile, began at the McDonnel-Douglas Astronautic Corporation of Los Angeles California. The first Spartan was fired on March 30, 1968, at Kwajalein.

Range: 460 miles
Speed: Mach 10

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Spartan 2nd Stage

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Spartan 3rd Stage

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Hawk

The Hawk surface to air anti-aircraft missile has provided medium range air defense for US/NATO forces for over 40 years. This veteran, all weather day night system is highly lethal and reliable. Basic hawk was developed in the 1950's and initially fielded in 1960. An evolving system, hawk is now in its 3rd phase of upgrade. It is no longer in frontline service with US forces.

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Hawk

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Nike Ajax

The Nike Ajax was deployed in 1954 and was the world's first operational guided, surface to air missile system. The Nike Ajax, named after the Greek Goddess of Victory was capable of combating high-speed, high-flying aircraft.

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Artillery Statue

A bronze statue stands at the entrance to the artillery museum. Located behind you are the Nike Missiles and a few horse stables. In front of you, follow the path and see the evolution of artillery. As you walk along you can see the many different types of artillery that the Army has used over the years.

Currently most of the displays do not have any signs to explain the vehicles or what dates they were used from.

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Army Rocket

A large rocket stands in the middle of the field near the entrance to the museum. Across the street you can see other artillery vehicles.

On my trip to the museum there were no signs describing the type of missile.

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Union Army Display

This is the entrance to the field artillery museum. There are two wings to the museum. To the left you can see the beginnings of the Army's artillery up until the Indian Wars. If you take a right you can view examples to modern warfare. It will take you from World War I up until today.

The museum is not large and you can see all of the exhibits in a few hours. I have included many photos taken from the museum but there are many more exhibits to be seen.

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Mobile Artillery 4

This mobile artillery piece is not located with the other vehicles next to the museum. You can find it along the artillery classroom building. If you travel west it will be two blocks over. You will see many howitzers across the street from the school house.

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Post graveyard

Located a short distance west from the museum, you will find the post's graveyard. The tombstones are for historical figures as well as personal that were stationed at Ft. Sill.

Near the center of the graveyard you will find the grave markers of many Native American's that died during the Indian Wars. Some of the people buried here played a role in the signing of the treaty at the end of the Indian War.

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Cynthia Anne Parker Gravestone

Cynthia Ann was a member of the large Parker frontier family that settled in east Texas in the 1830s. She was captured in 1836 by Comanche’s during the raid of Fort Parker near present-day Groesbeck, Texas. She was later re-kidnapped at age 34 by the Texas Rangers and subsequently spent the remaining ten years of her life trying to escape back to the Comanche people. She was the mother of the last Comanche chief, Quanah Parker.
(Wikipedia, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cynthia_Ann_Parker, 2010)

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Parker Family Tombstone

This is the tombstone for the Parker Family. Cynthia Parker was the mother for the last Comanche Chief, Quanah Parker. Before her kidnapping she had a family who now rest beside her.

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White Bear Headstone

One of the leading Kiowa chiefs in the 1860s and '70s, Santana was a fearsome warrior, but also a skilled orator and diplomat. Santana negotiated numerous times with the American government and signed such treaties as the Little Arkansas (1865) and Medicine Lodge (1867). He fought a protracted war to protect his tribe's land before settlers, miners and others finally overwhelmed it. (http://www.u-s-history.com/pages/h3759.html, January, 2010)

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Chief Kicking Bird Headstone

He was born around 1835, not a lot is known of his early life except his grandfather was a Crow captive that was adopted by the Kiowa. It was said he signed the first Kiowa Treaty in 1865 in Wichita, Kansas. This ultimately set up the boundaries of the reservation established in the Treaty of Medicine Lodge in 1867. Kicking Bird was a strong supporter of peace and tried to encourage his people to acknowledge what he believed to be unavoidable. With the Kiowa, Kicking Bird participated in many battles and raids during the 1860's and 1870's. Kicking bird was an advocate of education for his tribe. Along with the help of Thomas C. Battey, an Indian Agent, began the actions to open a school for the Kiowa tribe. However Kicking Bird suddenly died at Cache Creek under mysterious circumstances on May 3, 1875, he was buried at Fort Sill, Oklahoma in the post cemetery. It is rumored he had been poisoned by another member of the Kiowa tribe. (Wikipedia, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kicking_Bird, January, 2010)

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Tombstone of Unknown Soldier

This is tombstone which honors all of the fallen soldiers who had given their lives to their country.

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Martha Songbird Nature Trail

This is the entrance to the Martha Songbird Nature Trail. There are many signs located on the trail to educate you on the local plant life that can be seen in area.

It is across the street from the commissary parking lot. Nearby you can also find the post library and food court.

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Geronimo's Grave Sign

One of a few sign indicating that you are on the right road to see Geronimo's grave. This was the first marker that I came across; it is located on the right side of the road across from the golf course. You will not find another marker until you are at the grave site.

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General Sheridan Marker

This is a plaque that shows where General Sheridan camped while he was fighting in the Indian Wars.

His career was noted for his rapid rise to major general and his close association with Lt. Gen. Ulysses S. Grant, who transferred Sheridan from command of an infantry division in the Western Theater to lead the Cavalry Corps of the Army of the Potomac in the East. In 1864, he defeated Confederate forces in the Shenandoah Valley and his destruction of the economic infrastructure of the Valley, called "The Burning" by residents, was one of the first uses of scorched earth tactics in the war. In 1865, his cavalry pursued Gen. Robert E. Lee and was instrumental in forcing his surrender at Appomattox.

Sheridan prosecuted the later years of the Indian Wars of the Great Plains, tainting his reputation with some historians, who accuse him of racism. Both as a soldier and private citizen, he was instrumental in the development and protection of Yellowstone National Park. In 1883 Sheridan was appointed general-in-chief of the U.S. Army, and in 1888 he was promoted to the rank of four-star general by President Grover Cleveland. (Wikipedia, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Philip_Sheridan, January, 2010.)

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Quinette Crossing Marker

This is a spot where General Sheridan crossed the river. Today there is a modern bridge that allows passage over the river. This is also the route you will take if you are heading towards Geronimo's grave.

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Quinette River

On the grassy field to the right you will be able to see two stone markers. The marker closest to the river is where General Sheridan's tent was during the Indian Wars. A little further, about 50 yards away, is another marker showing where the tent for chow was at.

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Geronimo's Grave

Was a prominent Native American leader of the Chiricahua Apache who fought against Mexico and the United States and their expansion into Apache tribal lands for several decades during the Apache Wars. (Wikipedia, http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geronimo, January, 1011)

June 16, 1829 – February 17, 1909

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General Custer's Bivouac

A bivouac is a military camp or a semi-permanent facility for the lodging of an army. Camps are erected when a military force travels away from a major installation or fort during training or operations, and often have the form of large campsites.

This is the site for General Custer's Army during the Indian Wars.

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White Wolf River

A short bridge will lead you over the river and to your left, heading north, will be a picnic area. The river follows the Medicine Bluffs winding through ravines and an old dam.

You can go in the river with a raft. The two access points are within the picnic area and another off a dirt trail further up the river along the Medicine Bluffs. The trail route may be difficult to take a raft as the stairs leading down to them have been partially washed out. I would suggest heading out from the picnic area.

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White Wolf Ford

This was the trail crossing to camp of Esa Rosa, known as White Wolf, the Comanche Chief. I could find little information about the Chief online, only pictures were found.

This also was the camp site for the 2nd Calvary on 30 September 1858 on route to the settlement of Wichita village.

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Old Water Spring

This was a natural spring that provided fresh water along the trail. Today the spring is dry but the White Wolf River is near by if animals need a water source.

While hiking on the dirt trail towards Medicine Bluffs you can see the sign for the water spring a short distance from the gate on your left.

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Medicine Bluff

These are the bluffs where Geronimo as the story says, while on horseback jumped off while being pursued by soldiers. He is said to yell out his name "Geronimoooooo" in defiance as he made the jump down the bluffs. This is the reason why US paratroopers yell out the same when jumping out of airplanes. A tradition that has been around for a long time. Along with this story it is also said that a hawk or eagle was the only thing seen when the soldiers approached the edge looking for Geronimo.

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Medicine Cliffs

Legend tells us that this was also a famous place for Indian suicides. The huge fissure between No. 2 and 3 was known as the "Medicine Man's Walk."

It is also a sacred place where the sick came to be healed. If they were not able to be helped they would throw themselves off from the cliffs above.

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River below Medicine Bluff

This is the White Wolf River. The main access point to the river is via the stone stairs leading from the main trail. On the trail you will see a marker that provides the history of the Bluffs. The stairs can be found a short distance from the plaque.

You can also make your way to the river from the rocks behind the information plaque. The route is not very steep and has good footing.

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Stairs Back to Trail

These stairs will lead you from the dirt trail down to the White Wolf River down below. Use caution as the lower section has been washed out and is in need of repair.

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Zoo and Park Entrance

The entrance to the park is located a short distance down Punch Bowl Road. Keep to the left when you come to a fork in the road to get to the picnic area and zoo.

You can find many picnic tables within the park where you can enjoy a meal along side the river. Also located in the park are an outdoor education center and a small zoo. The zoo houses a few of the many animals that are native to the area.

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Conservation Education Center

The zoo also has an education center for children. It has a great staff that will provide a short tour of the zoo to provide additional information about the animals and their habitat.

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Pigeon

This is a list of animals that you can see while visiting the zoo. Unfortunately many animals were not in their cages, most likely due to the weather. I would take a trip to the zoo portion in the spring and summer months.

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Pheasant

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Grey Fox

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Rio Grande Turkey

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Raccoon

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Rocket

There are many artillery vehicles on display outside of the museum. There were no signs on most of the artillery to explain what they were.

As of 11/31/10, when I was leaving, I did see the museum staff adding new equipment and placing plaques to provide more information about the field artillery vehicles.