Foodie Tour of Seoul

Take subway line 1 to Jongno 5-ga station and take exit 8.

Though widely regarded as a market for fabrics and clothing, for those in the know, Gwangjang Market (Korea's oldest covered market) is actually a frugal food-lovers paradise. This is where you can get an array of traditional (and at times very adventurous street and "peasant" foods, many not normally available in restaurants), for extraordinarily low prices. It is also slightly off the tourists' radar so you can expect to be eating shoulder to shoulder with locals. The best sellers are the massive mung bean pancakes (Bindaeduk), perfect for breakfast, they make a distinctly delicious Korean way to start the day.
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Hours: Variable, though most stalls open from 9am to 6pm.

Address: 6-1 Yeji-dong

Go back to the subway station and take line 1 four stops to Jedi-dong, take exit 2.

Just when you thought you knew everything about food, along comes Seoul's Gyeongdong market. The country's largest medicinal herb market, it is also home to one of the widest arrays of herbs, ginseng, roots, edible flowers and mushrooms known to man. Who knew that bark soup could be good for backaches or that dried centipedes could sooth a migraine?

Some of the vendors at the market's more than 1,000 stalls will even give out free samples. This is the place to stock up on esoteric ingredients and freshly made herbal teas.
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Hours:
Daily 9am to 7pm. Some stalls may close on Sunday.

Address: 1035 Jegi-dong

Return to the subway and go five stops until you get to Jongno-3 station. Transfer here to line 3 and go one stop north to Anguk station. Take exit 6. After you exit the station walk about 75 meters and turn left on Insadong street. About 150 meters on your right (past Toto's Nostalgia Museum and Gift Shop) down a small alley is Yetchatjip teahouse. It is a little difficult to find but worth it. (As you turn down Insadong there is a tourist information center--look for a yellow "i"--they can offer assistance on the location of the teahouse, if needed.)

A visit to a traditional hanok (made with wood and a tiled roof) teahouse is a quintessentially Korean experience and the bustling Insadong neighborhood is home to some of Seoul's best.

One of the oldest and most popular in the city is Yetchatjip teahouse. This quaint gathering place offers a small menu but loads of atmosphere and is filled with antique trinkets, birds flying freely, and even a couple of parrots that squawk the occasional Korean word. Try to grab a table in the charming outdoor garden.

Try Yetchatjip's bestselling hot quince tea (mogwacha) and be sure to come back to the area for dinner at the famous Sanchon Buddhist restaurant.
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Hours:
10am to 11pm

Address:
Gwanhun-dong 196-5 2F, Jongno-gu

Return to the subway and go back to Jongno 3 transfer station. Transfer to line 1 and go 6 stops to Noryangjin station. Take exit 1. Walk about 100 metres over a pedestrian bridge to come to the market.

A sushi lover’s dream, this is Seoul’s oldest and biggest fish market. You’ll see octopus, squid, crabs, prawns, oysters and fish of all shapes and sizes. A great place for lunch, though the market specializes in raw fish, there are many food stalls happy to cook you up the freshest seafood you will ever eat (or you can eat it raw like the locals).

For early risers, between 1am and 6am seafood vendors auction their wares to bulk buyers. It’s great fun to watch even if you don’t understand a word!
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Hours:
Some stalls are open 24 hours. But most open at midnight and run until at least 6pm.

Address:
13-8 Noryangjin-dong, Dongjak-gu

Take line 1 to Jongno 3 station and take exit 6. Walk north about 300 meters toward Changdeokgung palace and on your left will be the Institute.

Part of the Institute of Traditional Korean Foods, the Tteok museum is wholly dedicated to the celebration of that quintessential, unassuming Korean dessert: the rice cake. Celebrating the sweet in all its myriad shapes, tastes and manifestations, even if you are not a fan of rice, a visit to this museum will convert you into a groupie of this hallowed grain. As much a sensation for the eyes as for the palate, these cakes come in a magical array of colors and shapes and are decorated with the finesse of an art work.

For a gourmand, as there is no better learning experience than one that involves taste buds, be sure to visit the cafe where you can sample both sweet and savory rice cakes.

There are cooking classes for foreigners available at the institute, worth looking into if you have time.
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Hours:
Monday to Saturday, 10am to 5pm; Sunday, 12pm to 5pm

Admission:
3000 Won

Address:
164-2 Waryong-dong