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Paris, Île-de-France, France

Foodie Tour: East

A guide to eating, drinking and being merry on the east side of central Paris

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Difficulty: Easy
Length: 4.0 miles / 6.4 km
Duration: Half day
 
Overview: This tour shows a casual side to Paris’ food and wine scene. It starts at Rue Mouffetard, a street full of artisan food shops where you can pick up snacks or gifts for people back home. From there you can enjoy a mouth-watering gourmet meal at Les Papilles, then head over toward the Jardin du Luxembourg to oggle the treats at Dalloyau, one of the most famous pastry companies in the city. Along the way you can sample Belgian beers, fresh gelato or even take a French cooking class. Passing along the Seine you will see the location of the oldest market in Paris as well as one of the oldest restaurants. The walk ends by the Bastille at Le Baron Rouge, one of the most pleasant wine bars in the City of Light, for drinks and traditional French snacks.

Tips: This tour is designed for an afternoon walk starting a little before lunch and ending in early evening. It is best for Tuesday-Thursday when all of the stores and restaurants mentioned will be open.

Points of Interest

Shopping
map

Rue Mouffetard Market

Start out by taking a stroll down this charming old pedestrian street in the Fifth Arrondissement. There you will discover store after store of artisan butchers, bakers, cheesemakers and wine vendors. "Amélie" fans will recognize this as the spot where Monsieur Dominique Bretodeau purchased his beloved rotisserie chicken. Official hours here vary, but things tend to pick up around 10am. There are countless boutiques worth exploring; the next POIs stop at a couple of favorites.
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Rue Censier and Rue Thouin
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Accessible from Les Gobelins and Censier-Daubenton on the 7 line.
Shopping
map

Pascal Gosnet Butchershop (Boucherie Pascal Gosnet)

At Gosnet's you can find all the traditional French cuts of meat. They show off delicious rotisserie chickens cooking on a spit right out on the street. Aromatic potatoes roast at the bottom of the display in the fat that drips from the chickens, filling them with moisture and flavor.
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Address: 119 rue Mouffetard
Phone: 01 45 35 14 72
Shopping
map

Veron Cheese Shop (Fromagerie Véron)

The service at Patrick Veron's cheese shop is warm and staff are patient with those who are not familiar with the wide variety of French cheeses they offer. The little cart to the left usually contains leftover cheese cuts at decent prices, a good opportunity to sample. They shrink wrap cheeses you want to carry home in your luggage.
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Address: 105 Rue Mouffetard
Phone: 01 47 07 55 79
Food/Dining
map

Les Papilles

Les Papilles means "tastebuds" in French. The name is fitting because the food served here is a taste sensation. Housed in a small storefront, this restaurant also functions as a gourmet grocery and wine cellar. It can be uncomfortably crowded in the evenings, so it is best to go here for lunch.

The chef generally offers a soup, slow-cooked meat dish, strong cheeses and a panna cotta dessert, but his offerings depend on whatever he has from the market for the day. At the dinner hour you are required to get all four courses. Lunch is more flexible; you can order à la carte and take a look at the wine offerings.

Flavors are complex and delicious and prices are reasonable for the quality of the meal. Stop in if only for the soups; they are the best I have ever had.
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Address: 30 Rue Gay-Lussac
Phone: 01 43 25 20 79
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Hours
Tuesday-Saturday Noon-2:30pm, 7-10pm

Other Resources
Les Papilles (English)
Shopping
map

Dalloyau

Dalloyau is a famous French pastry shop company dating back to the 17th century, when Charles Dalloyau baked for Louis XIV. It is credited with the creation of the popular chocolate and coffee flavored pastry, "opéra," found in nearly every French patisserie today.

Inside you can buy delicately prepared sweets to bring home, though the prices are about as high as you would expect from an elite Parisian patisserie. At the very least, the immaculate window displays make for good eye candy.
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Address: 2 Place Edmond Rostand
Phone: 01 43 29 31 10
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Hours
Daily 9am-8:30pm

Other Resources
Dalloyau
Food/Dining
map

La Gueuze

After you have pried yourself from the delectable Dalloyau shop windows, you can take a break for a cold beer at La Gueuze. With its laid-back pub atmosphere, it's a destination for beer lovers, offering one of the more impressive beer lists in Paris. Numerous European countries are represented.
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Address: 19 Rue Soufflot
Phone: 01 43 54 63 00
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Hours
Daily Noon-2am daily (open until 4am weekends)
Happy hour daily from 4-7pm

Shopping
map

Marché Maubert

On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays between 7am and 2:30pm, you will find a lively street market in the center of Place Maubert. This market is the oldest in Paris, originating in the 16th century. Hundreds of years later, vendors still offer fresh produce and cheese along side flowers, scarves and French trinkets.
Food/Dining
map

Amorino Gelato

Gelato may be an Italian specialty, but Amorino is a French chain that just does it right. Its gelato is the sort that tastes just like the labeled flavors, be it chocolate, hazelnut or mango, only amplified. Instead of scoops, staff layer gelato in the shape of petals, sculpting your cone into a flower. This system makes it easy to sample without going over board. Since they not do things by scoop, they are able to squeeze at least three flavors on to even a small cone.
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Address: 16 Rue Huchette
Phone: 01 43 54 73 64
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Daily 11:45am-Midnight

Other Resources
Amorino Gelato
map

La Cuisine Cooking Classes

This cooking school in the heart of Paris offers tourists half- and one-day lessons in English on how to cook French specialities. Offerings include a morning dedicated to making croissants and French breakfast items (breakfast is "petit dejeuner" in French) or an afternoon devoted to macarons. Prices and the duration of the class depends on what you are interested in. You have to sign up in advance. All details can be found on the website.
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Address: 80 Quai de l'Hotel de Ville
Phone: 01 40 51 78 18
Landmark
map

La Tour d'Argent

La Tour d'Argent is one of the oldest restaurants in Paris. The restaurant itself claims it was founded in 1582, though this is controversial as there is no written documentation of the restaurant until the 1860s. All the same, the prestigious French restaurant has remained a legend in Paris. It is said that Louis XIV used to dine here with the court during the 17th century. Most recently, it was one of the restaurants that inspired the popular animated film "Ratatouille."

One can experience this icon of cuisine for lunch for less than half the cost of dinner (e.g., about 65 Euro for "dejeuner"--lunch--versus 160 or 180 Euro for dinner). Get there via subway Pont-Marie.

Of note: For men, a jacket is required for dinner.
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Address: 15 Quai de la Tournelle
Phone: +33 (0)1.43.54.23.31
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Closed on Sunday, Monday, Month of August
Hours:
Tuesday 7pm - 10pm
Wednesday - Sunday 12pm - 2:30pm; 7pm - 10pm
Other Resources
La Tour d'Argent
Food/Dining
map

Le Baron Rouge

This popular wine bar is full of character and not at all pretentious. The atmosphere is warm and casual, prices are reasonable (2.50-4 Euros a glass). It offers a wide variety of French wines, many of which are not available at your typical Parisian bar. It is a great chance to taste something new. Cheese and charcuteries plates are bountiful and delicious. There are wooden barrels where you can purchase bottles of wine to take away as a souvenir or for the road.

Be warned: This is a popular spot, so most people stand and it is common to find patrons spilling out onto the sidewalk.
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Address: 1 Rue Théophile Roussel
Phone: 01 43 43 14 32
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Hours
Tuesday-Thursday 10am-2pm, 5-10pm
Sunday 10am-4pm

Pictures in this guide taken by: Ritzvittz, pommes.fritz123, flickr, imgdive, flickr, Marina Ha, quinn.anya, flickr, Richard Moross, flickr, smallkaa, flickr, jmhullot, flickr, lander2006, flickr, titou.net, flickr, malias, flickr

Foodie Tour: East Map


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