Ferrata Lippella to Tofana de Rozes

Go from Cortina d’Ampezzo towards Passo Falzarego, but you will not reach this pass. About 4 km after Cortina turn right to a small road. The quality of the road will get worse and worse, don’t worry and keep going up. At the fork take the left way and you will be surprised by a large parking place by Rif. A. Dibona (f.o.c.).
Don’t be scared by imposing south east face of Toffana de Rozes (on the picture). The ferrata goes around.

It is quite a piece of walk from the car to the start of the ferrata, it takes about 1 hour. Take the path 404 from Rif Dibona to west. The way is very comfortable at first…

During your way to the start of the ferrata you will meet the junction to “Grotta di Toffana”, it is another short ferrata into a cave. I am not sure if it is a good idea to combine with Lippella, which is indeed a very long trip itself.
You may also meet a couple of rock climbers practicing sport climbing along the way, see on the other picture.

You will see a wonderful shape of the mountain Averau (2647m on the picture right) and especially picturesque Cinque Torri (2361m, left). Behind and above Cingue Torri you may see the top of the mountain Nuvolau (2575m) with Rif. Nuvolau. There is also Rif Averau in the saddle between Nuvolau and Averau.

Finally it is the time to tie up into the ferrata set. The start is marked by a table and it is located just under the Forcella di Rozes, the ruin of the WWI.

The tunnels start immediately at the Forcella di Rozes and you definitely need a good lamp. The tunnel is equipped by a metal rope during whole length (500m). There is a window in the middle where you can take a view (on the picture). But after you admire the surrounding, you have to go to the second part of the tunnel again.
It had to be enormous effort of the Alpini soldiers to build the tunnel in the First World War.

After the tunnel, you descant about 50 meters down and traverse a snow field (in June). Actually you will do a lot of traversing later on.

Finally you also entertain yourself on some ferrata climbing of difficulty about easy C. Still, it will be often interrupted by walking on scree-covered ledges. All the time perfectly secured by the brand new steel rope – at least it looked new in 2011.
The climbing difficulty is no issue here. Just you will soon look forward to the end of traversing ledges. Who likes scree-covered ledges?

As you continue traversing, you may stop to make pictures of the South Fanes (2980m), which is the end of another famous via ferrata Tomaselli. The summit on the right is called Torre Fanis (2922m).
You can also see on the left of Fanis group the lift top station and chalet Lagazuoi. There is an easy short historical ferrata completely in tunnel on Lagazuoi.

Be patient and go on towards the junction Tre Dita. See other ferrata parties behind on the pictures. Some parts are really easy so few of them do not use carabineers. Personally we went secured, however.

At this point you reach the important milestone, the junction called Tre Dita. There is a table and you can hardly miss this point. Here you can take a shortcut to the left (east) to Rif Giussani. If you still have time and force, do not hesitate and go to the right.
In this case, please, note that the most difficult ferrata climbing is actually in front of you.

From Tre Dita you traverse to the south a couple of hundreds meters and then you go up. It is much different from the below parts. Now the route is steep and requires strong shoulders to get over the steps in the mountain depression which goes to the lower pre-peak.

As soon as you reach the lower peak all the ferrata climbing is over. In June you will go on snow all the time up to the main summit. However, I heard from other ferratists that later in summer there is no snow at all.
When walking on the crest you soon reach a junction to Rif Giussani again. When I was there it was completely covered by snow, so I am not sure about signs.
Again double check your abilities and if you feel at least a little bit OK, go ahead towards the main summit. That’s why you are here, aren’t you?
The top is on the south-east direction.

You probably reach the summit about 6 hours since you started from the car, including some breaks. There is not much space around the cross on the top of Toffana de Rozes (3225m). Just to allow you changing your dress (I think you will be wet).
Have a view to the other side of the mountain to Foffana di Mezzo (3244m).

At first descant the same way to the crest and to the last junction on it. You can see this part on the picture taken from the bottom.
From the junction on the crest take to the right (north east) and descant along scree-covered path or snow (as on the picture taken from the top).

After about 1h 45min you should be at the chalet (measured from the top). You can sit down and watch the summit – you may see silhouettes still on the summit of Toffana di Rozes. I was astonished to see some of them at half past 5 p.m. – please, try to reach the summit earlier.
From Rif Giussani take the footpath no. 403. There are no problems and just after 9 hours since you left your car you should be back (incl. some breaks).
Consider taking a shorter route the other day…

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