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Vila Real de Santo António Municipality, Faro, Portugal

Ecovia litoral do Algarve

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Difficulty: Moderate
Length: 147 miles / 237 km
Duration: Multiple days
 
Overview: Ecovia do Algarve is a coastal route that links Cape St. Vincent (Sagres) in the west point of Algarve and the city of Vila Real de Santo António (V.R.S.A.) in the east border with Spain. It is part of EuroVelo route 1 that links Sagres to the North Cape, in Norway, and is also known as the Atlantic Coast Route.

This route combines trails in protected areas with linking stretches mostly on traffic calmed or car-free routes and it is marked in a number of ways: a blue line on the road, white bicycle symbols painted on the road, yellow-topped grey poles and taller pillars with a map of the route in the locality. But there are long stretches with no way-marking at all, either because the road has been resurfaced, obliterating the on-road signs, or simply the linking between different sections is not complete.The National Road (EN) 125 is a good alternative if no other way is available. This road crosses the Algarve and is well-surfaced with a hard shoulder wide enough for a cyclist, but with intensive traffic and speedy drivers.

About 50% of the route is on unpaved and gravel trails. Sometimes you will also find short sandy and rocky sections or even a couple of single-tracks (beware if you bring a wide trailer).


Tips: Since Algarve is a main tourism area and there are many villages along the route, you will not have trouble finding all kinds of accommodations (hotels, hostels and camping sites) and restaurants and bars.

Summer temperatures can rise well above 30 degrees Celsius and the west can be quite windy. Do not forget the swimming suite, sun cream and some warmer clothes for the evenings. In winter you can expect rainy days. It also advisable to bring an insect reppelant.

The Algarve railway line is very convenient, since it connects many cities and places along the Ecovia.Bicycles can be taken free of charge on these trains.

Points of Interest

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Vila Real de Santo António

Vila Real de Santo António is situated on the Rio Guadiana, which is the river that divides the Algarve from Spain. Rebuilt after the terrible earthquake of 1755 by the Marquês de Pombal, an very influential Royal Minister in the 18th Century who redesigned the centre of the City of Lisbon due to the same earthquake. The city is a good example of smart architectur, with a central square and surrounding streets, nice to stroll and with a reasonable commercial use.


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Cacela Velha

Overlooking the sea, the town is perched on a rocky land, maintaining its magnificent features that had surpassed the hands of time. The village is small compared to others in Algarve, and still allows visitors to experience nature and local culture unspoiled by mass tourism.

According to historians, Cacela Velha and nearby Algarve towns used to be the a stopover for Phoenician and Greek travelers, that left traces of their presence. Furthermore, both Arab and Roman settlers had played a vital part in expanding the region. Some archaeological artifacts that were excavated in 2007 prove that the village was once inhabited by Islamic people and archaeologists were also able to determine that the place became a center for agriculture during the 10th century.

There is also a historical fort that had once served as the guard on bay to give warnings on invading outside forces. In 1755, the fort was partly destroyed due to the strong earthquake and ensuing tsunami that hit the Algarve. Later on it was restored and now serves as the head office for the local patrol of the National Guard
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Tavira

Tavira along with Lagos is one of the most architecturally attractive towns in the Algarve and its origin seems to date back to around 2.000 BC. In about the 7th Century BC the inhabitants of this area prior to the arrival of the Phoenicians were the fabled Tartessus that were possibly of a Celtic origin. The location was of considerable importance during the Roman period and a large area of some 45 hectares to the east of the present position of Tavira is being excavated on which there is evidence of a very large Roman settlement. During the occupation of the Algarve by the Moors this town was given considered importance due to its fishing industry. Dom Paio Peres Correia took the town from the Moors in anger in 1242 after seven of his principal Knights were killed during a period of supposed truce. During the 17th Century the port in its river was of was shipping produce such as salt, dried fish and wine.

The town has since been rebuilt with many fine 18th Century buildings along with its 37 churches - in fact it is referred to as the town of churches! The town church of Misericórdia dates back to 1541 and Palácio de Galeria is a location of historical interest besies being a cultural centre. A Roman bridge links the two parts of the town across the River Gilão. The church of Santa Maria do Castelo is built on the site of a Mosque and in it are the tombs of Dom Paio Peres Correia and his seven faithful Knights. Its original economic reliance on the fishing industry has now been surpassed due to the change in the migration patterns of the tuna fish.
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Olhão

Olhão is a major port and actually the largest fishing port in the Algarve. It is full of character with Moorish-style houses,an influence from the commercial links with Africa. Although Olhão only really became a town of note in the 19th century, it was first mentioned in 1378. At this time it would have been a very small fishing settlement of a handful of people, living in huts made of wood, reeds and straw on the beach. By 1679 it was important enough to need the building of the fortress of São Lourenço to defend it from pirates.

There are two market buildings side by side along the water front, which are a 'must visit' for the huge variety of extremely fresh fish and sea food straight from the port and the vast array of locally grown fresh fruit and vegetables. Olhão is well known for it's fish market, in particular and if you haven't got anywhere to cook some yourself, then try one of the numerous local cafes along the roadside nearby - you won't be disappointed.
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Faro

The capital of the Algarve and home to Faro Airport, the Algarve's only international airport, Faro is a city surrounded by island beaches and Ria Formosa nature reserve, it really is an extra special city!

The foundations of Faro started in Roman times, when the town was called Ossonoba. During the 9th century it was the capital of a short lived princedom, ringed with defensive walls and later the name changed to Santa Maria then to Harune. Finally in the middle of the 13th century Faro became part of Portuguese territory, completing the Christian reconquest of Portugal. In 1540 Faro was made a city and in 1577 became the site of the Episcopal Sé when the Bishop of the Algarve moved from Silves to Faro.

Faro, capital city of the Algarve, offers so much more than just a landing point in Portugal. It is a city full of history, great shops, restaurants and cafes aplenty, theatres and galleries, great beaches and the Ria Formosa nature reserve on the door step. The central area is really quite compact with everything within easy walking distance.

'Cidade Velha' - the oldest part of the city - is on the eastern side of Faro marina. Walk through the arch (Arco da Vila) by the Algarve tourist information office at the end of the Manuel Bivar gardens and follow the narrow, cobbled street, Rua do Municipio into the tree lined Largo de Sé. Faro Cathedral, in the middle of the square, may not look very grand from the outside, but inside is another story - the intricate gilded carving, decorated tiles (azulejos) and works of art are well worth seeing. It originates from the 13th/14th centuries (although much of the inside decoration is 17th century) and, despite having to be repaired after being ransacked and set alight by the Earl of Essex's men in 1596 and damaged in the earthquake of 1755, still has the original doorway and two original chapels.

View from the Sé Cathedral of the 'tesouro' roofs, Episcopal Palace and marinaIf you don't mind a bit of a climb, walk up the steps in the tower and get a tremendous view of Faro and the other buildings in the square - it's a good chance to get a birds eye view of the typically Portuguese pyramid shaped roofs (tesouro) on the 17th century Episcopal Palace (which is in the square facing the Cathedral.) The Palace is still the official residence of the Bishop of Faro so is not open to the public.

The building along the adjoining side of the square is the Episcopal Seminary that was built at the request of the then Bishop of the Algarve, Francisco Gomes de Avelar, during the 18th-19th centuries. The Bishop was also one of the main people (with the backing of the Marquis of Pombal), who did much to restore the city of Faro after the earthquake and his statue stands in one corner of the Largo de Sé.

Porta Nova pier (just around the corner from Faro marina) - where the ferries and boat trips leave fromOutside of the 'Cidade Velha', following the water front around the corner from Faro marina, is Porta Nova pier where you can get a ferry to the ilha beaches. We thoroughly enjoyed the boat ride through the Ria Formosa - about a 30 minute trip each way - gently pottering through the calm waters in between the marshy outcrops, spotting a few birds along the way and generally watching the world go by. Also a chance to get another view of Faro - from the seaward side.
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Armação de Pêra

Armação de Pêra was named after the inland region of Pêra in Portugal, where the fishermen came down from originally and armação, which was a specially adapted boat, with a combined netting system, designed by the Moors. Today Armação de Pêra is a lively high-rise Algarve resort, which is very popular with Portuguese holidaymakers in the summer. It has a wonderful long sandy beach stretching all the way to Praia de Galé.

Armação de Pêra is a mix of slightly weather worn buildings and new, modern apartment blocks along the sea front, many being 10 to 12 storeys high. The 'old village' is at the eastern end by the fishermen's beach and is more typically Algarvean. It is here, on the beachfront that the remains of a 17th century fort still stand - built to defend the village from pirates and corsairs by a wealthy fishing boat owner. There is a chapel inside, dedicated to Santo António, which is also 17th century.

The views of the coast from the fort are of the long, long stretch of golden sand which runs from the rocks and caves at the western end by Senhora da Rocha, to Praia de Galé (near to Albufeira) in the east.

There are also numerous restaurants and cafés along the sea front of the 'old village', including a couple on the beach near the fishing boats, most of which (obviously!) have local, freshly caught fish on the menu.
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Portimão

Portimão is a thriving cosmopolitan city that has become one of the most popular holiday destinations in the Algarve. In addition to excellent beaches, easy access to golf courses and a full spectrum of amenities and entertainment, Portimão has the beauty of the Alvor estuary to offer. It is a place where the fun-loving visitor, eager to discover the nightlife and entertainment of the city will be as content as the nature-loving visitor who wishes to spend days gazing at the migratory birds in the beautiful, undisturbed landscape of the protected Alvor Ria.

After a day in the sun, the city of Portimão offers plenty of entertainment and things to do. The quayside restaurants are perfect for a taste of the local snack, meaty sardines served on homemade bread, or a fuller meal consisting of the local soups, followed by a bean and whelk stew, clam rice or fried cuttlefish. The traditional sweets and desserts, the ‘morgados’, ‘bolas de ovo’ (egg balls) and ‘figos cheios’ (stuffed figs) are all based on the region’s local produce, figs and almonds. The waterfront area is ideal for leisurely strolls and the exclusive boat club boasts a fabulous restaurant overlooking the harbour.
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Lagos

The Romans gave the name of “Lacobriga” to the town but its natural river port would indicate very much earlier occupation. The Moors then gave the town the name of "Zawaia" It was captured from the Moors in 1189 but it was not until 1249 that it was finally conquered by Dom Afonso III and integrated into the kingdom of Portugal with the name of "Lagus". This historic town has played an important part in the story of discovery of many parts of the world. It was from the harbour that Vasco da Gama sailed in 1499 on his historic and epic voyage of discovery. Lagos was the capital of the Algarve from 1578 until 1756 and there remain several ancient buildings to testify to its historic glory. From its Port maritime expeditions were embarked upon to discover the world at the orders of Prince Henry the Navigator. Also, the Armada of 800 vessels led by the ill-fated heir to the throne Dom Sebastião embarked from Lagos in 1578 to capture the town of Ceuta in Morocco.

It is written that the very first time the famous explorer Columbus from Genoa set foot in the Iberian Peninsular, was when the inhabitants of Lagos saved him and other sailors from the shipwreck of a vessel in which he was sailing. Another interesting fact is that Francis Drake in 1587 failed in his attempt to raid Lagos and then sailed on to Sagres to sack the occasional historic home of Henry the Navigator".

Essentially now an important tourist town there are still many architectural signs of its ancient past, even a building dating originally back to around 1445 which is recorded as being Europe’s first building used as a slave market. The walls of the town in the most part remain after sections were restored. Attached to the famous 17th Century "gold" church of Santo António there is a small museum of regional items, some of which are quite odd!

There are several interesting statues erected to the famous figures of the past that are associated with the history of this town. None more controversial that the sculpture of Dom Sebastião standing in the main square in front of the Town Hall. A more recent statue commemorates the Algarve’s only Saint, São Gonçalo de Lagos, who was born in 1360 and died in 1422 in Torres Vedras. Pope Pio VI raised him to Sainthood in 1778. The town’s more recently constructed Marina presents a lovely picture and this harbour is practically the first sight a visitor has of Lagos. Besides the boats that find it convenient as a permanent mooring it is usually full of yachts passing on the way or returning from the Mediterranean and the Americas. At the entrance to the harbour is the "Forte da Bandeira" which was constructed in the 17th Century.
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Sagres

It was to this place that the Infante D. Henrique, Prince Henry the Navigator, came in the 15th century to work on his obsession to push back the frontiers of the known world, and opened the phase in Portuguese history called The Discoveries.

While precise information about Henry is far from complete, it is clear he was a most remarkable man. He was a prince, politician, warrior and grand master of the Order of Christ, but his fame endures mainly because of his monumental contribution to geographical discovery and the opening up of trade and cultural links between Europe and the East. When he arrived to settle in the Algarve as Governor in 1419 he was a young man of 25, austere and devoutly religious. A veteran of the invasion of Ceuta, he retained an abiding zeal to banish Muslims from North Africa and the Holy Land once and for all. While in Ceuta he had learned from traders about gold routes across the Sahara which were thought to originate in Guinea on the African west coast. Crusading reverence coupled with a thirst for gold revenue were soon to be augmented by an obsession to find Prester John, the legendary priest-king who ruled supreme amid fabulous wealth somewhere in Africa or the Orient. Religion and economics - God and gold - were the catalysts. Sagres was the crucible.
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Cabo São Vicente

Cabo de São Vicente (Cape St.Vincent) near Sagres in Portugal and the Ponta de Sagres together form the south-western corner of the European continent. The cape consists of a steep cliff of about 69 m with almost no vegetation.

It was already sacred ground in Neolithic times, as standing menhirs within the area attest. The name of the area it is located in still recalls the Promontorium Sacrum (or Holy Promontory) of the Romans. The Ancient Greeks called it Ophiussa (Land of Serpents), inhabited by the Oestriminis. The early Christians followed that tradition and dedicated this last part of the known world to St. Vincent, giving name also to the neighbouring coast (Costa Vicentina). According to the legend the relics of the martyr Saint Vincent were transported from the Holy Land to the cape by ravens.

The impressive lighthouse which provides a guiding beam to ships passing the cape is open for visits. Although this is one of the most frequented seaways in the world, ships have to respect such distances for security reasons, that they can barely be seen on the horizon.
On the surrounding cliffs, beaten by the strength of the vast Atlantic, local fishermen risk their lives wedged on dramatic perches with the thundering sea below. Year by year some of them, as well as some imprudent tourists, meet their death here.
Pictures in this guide taken by: Kumbaiala, ianontour, Grande_Orientador

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About the Author

Kumbaiala
Kumbaiala
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Work: Researcher at the Faculty of Sciences, University of Lisbon, Portugal ...

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