Donegal Town Heritage Guide

We start this pleasant one hour+ walk around the town from the quay. There is helpful signage located here which tells of the history of the abbey as well as tourist information and details of the sort of fish you can expect to catch around the county.

The quay is a good place to park, but please note that you'll need to get a ticket from the parking machine. If interested in taking the Donegal bay waterbus, you may wish to note that the waterbus office is located to the right of the signage. Once set, you'll be making your way to the water's edge.

As you can imagine, shipping played an important part in the commercial development of the town. If you have walked the twenty or so metres from the starting point of the guide, you should now be at what is known as the Old Pier. It should be noted that the car park you've just crossed formed part of the bay area before being reclaimed.

This pier was built for the convenience of local traders, but a newer pier was built further along to your left by the old abbey around 1840 to accommodate vessels requiring a large draught of water. Some £11,000 worth of cargo was imported from the port. Among these items were glass, sugar, salt, earthenware, tea, cotton, oak barrels, coal and slate. According to the signage outside of the castle later on, we're informed that boats of up to 10 tonnes used to be able to land close to the castle - from here we can assume.

You really should sample the delights of Donegal bay on the water and the waterbus is the perfect vessel for such a voyage. The 80 minute cruise explores the history, environment and wildlife of this unique estuary, which is renowned for its vistas of mountains and sea. The boat is weatherproof, comfortable and completely safe. The trip costs e15 for adults, Under 5s Free. 5yrs to 17yrs €5.00. No student reductions.

The waterbus sails all during the summer dependent on weather, tides and demand. You can contact the office on 0749723666 to get more specific information on dates you are interested in. It is important to purchase your boarding tickets from the waterbus ticket office on Quay Street not later than 15 mins prior to sailing time as boarding always commences 15 mins before scheduled sailing times. It is located in the building to the left of the start of this tour.

Reservation bookings may be made by e-mail or on facebook, but tickets for reservation bookings must be purchased not less than one hour prior to scheduled sailing time otherwise the reservation is considered invalid.

It seems appropriate that the founder of the town's historic castle, Red Hugh O'Donnell should have a statue with such a fine view of the town and be located beside the abbey. In 1474, with his wife, Lady Nuala, he invited the Franciscan monks to town and work commenced on the abbey's construction.

The O'Donnell clan ruled over most of Donegal, known as Tir Chonaill (excluding the Inishowen peninsula) from the castle, but were inaugurated as heads of the clan at Doon Rock near Kilmacrenan in north Donegal. A straight white wand was handed to the chieftain by one of the clan's nobles with the words 'receive the sovereignty of this county and preserve equal and impartial justice in every part of its dominions'.

Looking at the inscription, you'd seem to glean more information about the rather tedious business of who and what helped source the funding for the statue than the man himself. The statue was completed in time for the 400th anniversary of the 17th century event, the Flight of the Earls, of which this 15th century chieftain had nothing whatsoever to do with it. Go figure. We were saved the further indignity of having the town's founder perched on top of the nearby sewerage station when some wag pointed out that placing a great chieftain on the town's waste would be a great disservice to the man and his pledge at Doon Rock!

Just to confuse you some more, there is a second more famous Red Hugh who is remembered as being a leading opponent along with Hugh O'Neill of the creeping dominance of English rule in these parts. History remembers him for his patronage of learning & the Church and for powerful oratory. He died in Spain in 1602, but Red Hugh is buried somewhere in the old abbey.

Ensure you take note of the inscription on the left just before you enter the old abbey. From this tranquil and picturesque location, the greater part of the finest book to chronicle Ireland's history was written, known as The Annals of the Four Masters. One commentator called it 'the most remarkable collection of national tradition in all Christendom'. We'll tell you more about them at the Four Masters' obelisk in the Diamond.

Besides being a site of great cultural significance, it serves as the final resting place, not just for Red Hugh O'Donnell, but for most of the old families of the town, with no religious favour given here - all creeds lie beside one another. If you have time, take note to the many ornate and finely designed tombstones. There can be few resting places that can offer such a beautiful setting.

You can walk through the old abbey and come out at the far entrance. Note the pathway with the gentle gradient that leads on to the Glebe.

Having made your way up the path at the end of the graveyard, you'll be taking a left back into town. Before you turn left, look right towards the hill in the distance on your side of the road. This is Tullycullion, which was the site of the original Donegal Golf Club. Closer it may have been, but not for the high handicapper with every shot rolling somewhere or other. When you are out at the stunning Murvagh Golf Club that replaced it, appreciate how far this club has come and spare a thought for someone looking for a wayway ball on that 9 hole course!

'Glebe' refers to a plot of land belonging to a parish church or an ecclesiastical office and along the way there is both the rectory and the local Protestant school. At the end of the Glebe before you get to Quay Brae, you'll notice a large crater on your right. This was to have been a large scale development, but its timing came just as the Celtic Tiger stopped roaring. It has laid dormant for three years, but plans are now afoot for an Aldi supermarket

After the Glebe, you'll be making your way back down the gentle brae. Take note of the wonderful vista of the Bluestack mountains from the top of Quay brae. There are a whole host of walks around these hills and there are plenty of guides on offer to help you along the way and tell you the wonderful history.

We'd recommend Donegal Walkers Welcome who are sanctioned by Failte Ireland to help develop the area as a major walking hub. Contact them on 0877844803, by email info@donegalwalkerswelcome.com or see www.donegalwalkerswelcome.com

On the left hand side, you'll notice a green sign with an 'i' which is of course the tourist office, which is our next stop. At the bottom of the brae, you'll notice a turn off to the right. The name of this street is Sene Lane and is named after the town in Brittany France that the town is proud to be twinned with.

The official Failte Ireland tourist office is located at the foot of Quay brae and is open all year around. It is the best source of information from which to base your trip around the north west and beyond.

Open July & August, Monday to Saturday 9-5.30. September to June, Monday to Saturday 9-5. Disabled access.

The Quay, Donegal Town,
0749721148
www.discoverireland.ie

Located at the bottom of Quay Brae on the left, near our starting point, is the old anchor which belonged to the French vessel La Romaine which took part in the rebellion of 1798. The boat put into Donegal bay when it learned from locals of General Humbert's defeat, but cut off its anchor and fled to France when it saw English troops nearby. The anchor was later hauled to the town where it lay in the silt until the 1950s when the local community raised it from the river bed to its current location.

Besides the anchor and Sene Lane across the road, the third slightly more tenuous French connection with Donegal is nevertheless quite interesting. Donegal Town man Walter Henry was a surgeon who was serving on the island of St. Helena when Napoleon Bonaparte was exiled there. He apparently struck up a close friendship with the ex-Emperor in his years there and Napoleon had requested a special gift for the surgeon in honour of his service, but this was prohibited by the British captors.

The Diamond is the rather fanciful name that squares in the northwest are called - you'll see Diamonds in Ardara, Raphoe and Derry as well. Donegal Town served as the market town for the surrounding villages and hinterland as far over as Ballintra to the west, Barnesmore to the north and Killybegs to the east. For centuries, it has been the hub of commerce and socialising, where the sounds and smells could be overwhelming and there was eating and drinking to be done in the local hostelries at the end of it all.

The Diamond is where folk would travel for the fair day and the market day. Patents for these days go back as far as the early 1600s when Sir Basil Brooke had taken over the castle from the O'Donnells. The fair day was held on the second Friday of each month while the market occurred every Saturday.

Hiring fairs where young men were 'sold' to farmers for up to six months at a time took place here - Paddy and Mairead tell us more in the audio piece.

As you round the corner of the Olde Castle Bar, you'll come into view of the iconic Church of Ireland and indeed Donegal Castle. The church was built between 1825 and 1828 from a design by local architect William Graham in the late Gothic style church and has an impressive cut stone ashlar tower and spire with a three bay hall. It is floodlit at night and is a fine addition to the skyline.

Across the road is the slightly less impressive looking Courthouse. Locals have argued for years on whether it should be done away with to give an unencumbered view of the castle, but it is still here both as a district and circuit court. In more recent years, historical lectures known as the McGarrigle lectures have taken place here every March.

For most of the last two hundred years, the majority of Donegal Castle lay sadly in ruins, but was almost fully restored in the late 1990s due to an unwavering local campaign by the likes of legendary Mary B. 'Dee' Crossan & audio guide, Paddy Meehan (amongst others).

Built in 1474, the castle consists of a 15th century rectangular keep with a later Jacobean style wing. The complex is sited on a bend in the River Eske, near the mouth of Donegal Bay, and is surrounded by a 17th century boundary wall. There is a small gatehouse at its entrance mirroring the design of the keep. Most of the stonework was constructed from locally sourced limestone with some sandstone. The castle was the stronghold of the O'Donnell clan, Lords of Tír Conaill and one of the most powerful Gaelic families in Ireland from the 5th to the 16th centuries.

Open Mid March-End October: Daily, 10:00 - 18:00. 1st November - Mid March, Mon, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun 9.30 - 16.30. Last Admission: 45 minutes before closing. Average Length of Visit: 45 minutes. - 1 hour. Disabled access on ground floor only. Toilets. Tirchonaill Street, Donegal Town, 0749722405 donegalcastle@opw.ie, www.heritageireland.ie/en/North-West/DonegalCastle/

Bridge street is another old fashioned street with some businesses worth visiting including Timony's News which has all of the major international newspapers and of course the Reel Inn, where you will find proper traditional music played seven nights a week. Dancing often occurs and if you have a 'party piece' well then, get some Dutch courage and off you go!

The bridge you are crossing is dedicated to Reverend John Boyce D.D which may not mean much to you. However, Boyce had a nom de plume of Paul Peppergrass and as a writer, he may be known to some of our elder American cousins. One of Peppergrass's best known works was called 'Shandy McGuire'. The book was so popular with the Irish in America that it was dramatised and for many years was a feature of stage productions on St. Patrick's Night.

Like many an Irishman before him, he emigrated to America serving on the East coast. He was friends with Dickens, Thackeray and D'Arcy McGee. Unfortunately, his request to have all his papers burned after his death was assiduously carried out depriving us of a better understanding of the man.

The bridge itself was built in 1840 and has three arches best seen from Waterloo later on. It replaced the older bridge that had been at the far side of the Methodist church on the other side and lead onto Meetinghouse street.

The black plaque to Boyce is somewhat precariously placed on a busy road, so unless you have exceptional eyesight, here is what it says:- 'The Rev. J Boyce D.D. A native of this town. Born 1810 - Died 1864. Author of Shandy Maguire, Mary Lee, The Spaewife, etc. "It was here his boyhood days in pleasure passed away".

After you cross the bridge, you'll see a pale building on a hill in front of you. This was the secondary school for the town, opening in 1955. It greatly underestimated the surge in population and so by the seventies, there was a somewhat comical situation of pupils having to zig zag back and forward across town to get to ancillary buildings for the school - no wonder we've turned out such a prodigious generation of walkers! The state of the art school to replace it in 1981 though rectified this problem.

Notice the green sign to your left showing the various flora and fauna you can expect to find in the area. It's a good precursor to a fine stroll around the bank walk which you will see by the riverside on your left. This is a real treat right in the heart of the town and it will take you along the river as it becomes the bay. Tree types are marked and there are benches along the way - perfect before an evening meal. We've also done a guide for this walk which you can download.

After the bridge on the right is the Methodist church, built in 1886 to accommodate the ever increasing Methodist population. At the opening ceremony, Reverend Gervase Smith had these stark words from Epesians 2 for his flock: 'In the past you were spiritually dead because of your disobedience and sins'. Nice!

As you walk past the church, you'll see a green and an usual bright red shed on your right. You'll be taking the next right up Meetinghouse street.

A Meeting House is a reference to a Presbyterian church and at the end of Meetinghouse street, you'll find such a church which was built in 1884. The street is a also where you'll find the Forge, albeit a charming pub these days, (unusal for an Irish pub, it only has a six day licence). Dan McBrearty had a forge at this location and after him, John Bonner with a forge down the back alleyway. Older locals will remember when it was simply McBrearty's and doubled up as a shop under the strict eye of Eileen McBrearty. Ironically for an Irish pub, drunkeness and bad language were never tolerated, but all locals agree it was a great place for the gossip!

You'll have noticed the postbox red shed on the green. This served at one time as a building for soldiers after WWI. To the left of it was the Green where horse fairs took place until the 1900s. It's hard to believe that this sleepy street was once the main thoroughfare to Killybegs when a six arch bridge across the river was located at the end of the street, indeed some locals still refer to it as Bridge End.

You'll be continuing down along the river on Waterloo Place until you see a turn off to the left.

Waterloo Place is a fine place to observe where the Eske river becomes the sea on its final bend and to see the majesty of Donegal Castle on the other side of the river bank. For years, this tranquility was somewhat spoilt by a sewerage pipe going across the river no less, but this has thankfully been removed. These days, a more graceful interloper in the form of a heron can be seen looking out for some dinner along these waters.

At the corner turn off, you'll notice two of the more historic buildings in town. The building to your left on the corner is the Masonic Hall and the building across the way was the first school in the town being the Donegal National School for Protestants built in 1812, now a doctor's surgery. Behind the Masonic Hall up the brae is the old Orange Hall. Anyone wondering why its called Waterloo Place should remember that the Iron Duke's nephew lived locally - John Hamilton of Brownhall, a well remembered Famine landlord.

Carry on along the river until you cone to the iron bridge. You'll be taking the steps up to Tirchonaill street.

Tirchonaill street by virtue of its famous inhabitants in the castle is the oldest street in town. It was only united with the coming of the iron bridge in 1895. These days, it still has an old fashioned quality about it - neighbours are very close and courteous to each other. Look out for Mullans's shop and be transported back in time. Near it, but out of view is Hanna Hats which produces another must-buy when in town. Their patchwork style tweed hat are both distinctive and affordable.

After you make your way up the steps, you'll notice the Post Office on the left. Carry on down the street until you get to the end. Across the road, you'll see the Railway Heritage Centre.

One of the great shames in the county is that such wonderful terrain no longer has so much as an inch of railway track for daily commercial travel. It all stopped on the last days of the 1950s as roads had effectively taken over as the main source of getting from A to B and trains, often seen by the Fianna Fail government as the last vestige of the British Empire, were superfluous.

One of the great train journeys in Donegal before the closure was that from Donegal Town to Stranorlar on the Black Pig railway, known in Irish as 'An Muc Dubh' travelling through Barnesmore Gap. Thankfully, its memory won't fade as there is a dedicated group of enthusiasts in the locality who have managed to preserve as much for posterity as possible in this heritage centre.

To the left of the heritage centre and over the wall is the St. John Bosco centre, where a number of community activities take place from counting of votes in general election, theatre to boxing matches. In its day, it was the Pavesi dance hall where famous acts such as Roy Orbison, Van Morrison and Jim Reeves performed.

Contact the heritage centre on 0749722655.
http://www.donegalrailway.com/donegal-railway-centre/

After the heritage centre, take a left. We'll be making our way to Magee factory. Be warned, it's hard to miss the fine canary yellow building that is Irvin's hardware store on the left, one of the few buildings viewable from space one wag has said!

A key passage in Brian Friel's masterpiece 'Dancing at Lughnasa' refers to a factory opening up in Donegal Town that signaled the end to the two sisters home weaving. That factory was Magee of Donegal. John Magee had started a draper's shop in the town in 1866 and soon his enterprising cousin Robert Temple had joined the business, buying it from Magee in 1901. Temple saw the need for improvement in the weaving process and in order to ensure quality, he ended up employing his own weavers under factory conditions. With the recruitment of Robert's son Howard in 1931, the business continued to expand into the ready to wear tailored suit.

Donegal tweed is known the world over these days and it mainly thanks to the Temples. The factory you are looking at was built in 1966 and the shop is located on the Diamond which you really should visit. In the Summer, there are weaving demonstrations as well as a cafeteria upstairs. Magee of Donegal doesn't just cater for men's suits - look out for their ladies' range as well.

After the Magee factory, you'll cross the Peter Kennedy bridge. Take time to savour the flow of the highly regarded Eske river as it comes near the end of its journey. Fancy a spot of fishing on the river? Help is very close to hand; at the top of Water Street just after the bridge, you'll find Doherty's Fishing Tackle shop. Here, Charlie Doherty will be able to get you a licence, rent out a rod and tackle and tell you some secrets about the river if you ask nicely.

For information in-season (1 May to 30 September) contact: Eske Angling Centre, Lough Eske Demesne. Tel: 0749740781.
For information off-season contact:
Northern Regional Fisheries Board, Station Road, Ballyshannon, Co. Donegal. Tel. 0719851435

Licence Fees in 2012
National Annual Licence e120
District Licence e58
21-day Licence e46
One-day Licence e32
Juvenile Licence (under 17) e18

Permit Fees in 2012
Note: You must have a permit as well as a fishing licence.
Daily Adult Permit e30
Daily Juvenile Permit e12
Weekly Permit (seven days' fishing e150
Permits are available for collection from the Eske Angling Centre, Lough Eske Demesne, just before Harvey's Point Country hotel. Tel: 0749740781.

Boat Hire for Lough Eske
Boat hire is e35 per day not including engine. This price does not include your angling permit.
If you are fishing then you will need a fishing permit.
Boat hire and an angling permit for one person is e50 inclusive.
To purchase boat hire and angling permits for two people the cost is e80 inclusive. Maximum of two people per boat.

Making your way up Water street, you'll come to a T junction for Main street. You'll be turning left by the Ulster bank. Beside it is 'Donegal Famous Chipper', not that famous really, but a nice bit of marketing and a tasty fish supper. Further on up the street, you'll see the Coachman's pub - well worth a visit with a very nice cavern.

If you continue some 40 metres up Main street, you'll see a sign for the Famine graveyard, burial site of locals who died in the Great Famine of the 1840s. Next to it is Donegal hospital, former site of the workhouse where the poor of that famine were forced to go to feed themselves.

The domineering edifice of Main street is of course St. Patrick's Catholic church, known as The Memorial Church of the Four Masters. Built in a Neo Irish Romanesque style, it is 100% Irish built with Barnesmore granite and Mountcharles sandstone, designed by Dubliner Ralph Byrne and built by Messrs. Wm. Donnelly from Fermanagh.

Main street retains many of its original architectural characteristics. Indeed it has its fair share of characters - from Tosh McCallion to the legendary Charlie Doherty. Sadly, Frank Bustard, who used to meticulously decorate his shop with a cart and turf has recently passed away.

Returning back into town past Charlie's and The Sweater Shop, you'll see a somewhat incongruous bottle of Champagne on the side of a building, a remnant of the more affluent days of the Celtic Tiger! Continue your stroll and you'll be back on the Diamond within a few minutes.

And so we make our way back to the Diamond, which may have gotten rid of the serious sights and smells of yesteryear's commercial activity, but still retains a proud tradition of selling. Besides a visit to Magee of Donegal, there are some very impressive shops to visit in the vicinity - Britton's jewelry shop is just before Magee's, across the road from Magee's is McGettigan craft butchers (ensure you try some of their award-winning sausages) and beside Magee's are the highly rated Four Masters' bookshop and Forget-Me-Not giftware shop.

Besides these fine shops, look out for some great dining in the locality. Aroma in the nearby Craft Village is well worth a visit, as is Castlemurray in St. John's Point near Dunkineely and the two famous hotels out by Lough Eske, Harvey's Point and Solis Lough Eske Castle. Closer to home, you'll enjoy the Red Hugh Restaurant above the Olde Castle bar, La Bella Donna and The Harbour - find these and other restaurants on our Donegal Town Food Guide, part of the Donegal Town Guides bundle.

The impressive Mountcharles sandstone monument in the centre of the town was erected in 1935 from the funding by local solicitor P.M. Gallagher. It honours the four men who helped write the celebrated Annals of the Four Masters, Brother Michael O'Cleary and laymen Peregrine O'Clery, Peregrine O'Duignan and Fearfeasa O'Maolconry.

It serves as a full account of Gaelic Ireland from its origins until the end of established Gaelic order when the last of chieftains fled in 1607 from Rathmullan, Co. Donegal in what is known as the Flight of the Earls. To read the Annals would take you several months and set you back about e900 - not quite a breezy holiday read if you're thinking about it! With every second building named after them, you may be wondering where exactly are the Annals of the Four Masters today? They're now kept by the Franciscans in Switzerland, but details can be obtained from the National Library on Kildare Street in Dublin as well as from the Four Masters bookshop.

'Four meek men around the cresset,
With the scrolls of other days;
Four unwearied scribes who treasure
Every word and every line.
Not for fame or not for fortune,
Do these eager penmen dream.
Oh ! that we who now inherit
All their trust, with half their toil,
Were but fit to trace their footsteps
Through the Annals of the Isle;
Oh ! that the bright Angel, Duty,
Guardian of our task might be,
Teach us as she taught our Masters,
In that Abbey by the sea,
Faithful, grateful, just to be!'

T.D. McGee

These days the Diamond area is used to celebrate the homecoming of local heroes such as the victorious Donegal Gaelic football team. From the sublime to the ridiculous, it has recently played host to Irish Eurovision phenomenons, Jedward. Farmers' markets and fayres occur here on a regular basis. The chroniclers of medieval Ireland my not approve of everything they'd see before them today, but in the town of the Four Masters, they are not forgotten and we'd like to think they'd be proud to be in the heart of the action of this thriving historic town.

We hope you have enjoyed this guide around the town and wish you a happy and weather-friendly visit while exploring this beautiful part of the world.

Looking for more heritage information on the town? The two best books to have (and are gratefully acknowledged as key sources for this guide!) are: Joe McGarrigle's 'Donegal, past and present' and Malachy Sweeney's 'The Sands of Time; a history of Donegal Town and its environs', both of which you should be able to get in The Four Masters bookshop.