Bluffs, a Beach Cave, and the Historic Ranch

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Bluffs, a Beach Cave, and the Historic Ranch

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Difficulty: Easy
Length: 3.5 miles / 5.6 km
Duration: 1-3 hours

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Overview: This particular walk will give you just a taste of what Wilder Ranch has to offer. The park has 34 miles of hiking, biking and equestrian trails winding through 4000 acres of coastal terraces, valleys, and inland canyons. Wilder Ranch is an ongoing restoration project, and a very successful one.

The walk focuses on the lower portions of the park, HWY 1 to the coastal bluffs, beaches, and restored ranch buildings. It's easily done in half a day and shouldn't wear out kids...especially when they visit the beaches and fern cave. The ranch area is especially fascinating when costumed docents are available for living history demonstrations.

Wilder Ranch State Park contains a mix of coastal habitats intermixed with active agriculture, cattle grazing, and cultural preserve. Since 1994, agricultural fields have been returned to wetland and riparian habitats with their native tree, shrub and plant species that include: dogwood, alder, cottonwood. Wetland bird species, particularly the snowy plover, have returned to nest. Red-legged frogs and other wetland animals have returned to the area as well. The uplands restoration effort has been highly successful with continued efforts to eradicate pest plant species including hemlock and thistle. Overall, Wilder Ranch has become a showcase of coastal wetland restoration.

Like brussels sprouts? One source indicated about 12% of the U.S. production is grown in the state park's agricultural preserve. If it's the growing season when you visit, you'll be walking past it all.

In addition to the guided historic walks, the park boasts Old Landing Cove Trail, a bluff-top path that, as its name suggests, leads to a historic cove. From the 1850s to the 1890s, schooners dropped anchor in this cove to load lumber. Observant hikers can spot iron rings, which supported landing chutes, and are still embedded in the cliffs.

Originally established by Mission Santa Cruz in 1791 as the Rancho del Matadero, the site was originally the main rancho supplying Santa Cruz Mission in early California. Later, the Wilders acquired the property and established an innovative dairy operation. Several restored buildings once belonging to the Wilder family are preserved and the surrounding grounds include Victorian homes, barns, ranch workshops, gardens, and historic adobe. Thanks in large part to an active volunteer community, the park has tours and living history demonstrations to help visitors explore the history of early ranchers and farmers along the Central Coast.

Tips: Location:
The park is located north of Santa Cruz, immediately west of Highway One, approximately 1.8 miles past the Western Drive stoplight.

1401 Old Coast Road
Santa Cruz, CA 95060

Latitude: 36.96024
Longitude: -122.083

Telephone:
(831)423-9703 or (831)426-0505

Operating Hours:
8am - sunset

$10.00 day-use parking fee

Camping:
Horse camping only. No backpacking.

Horse camping:
$14/night per site. Six sites.
Reservations and information: 831-423-9703

Accessibility:

Exhibits/Programs: The historic ranch and outbuildings are located some distance away from the parking lot, but visitors may arrange to be dropped off in the historic area. Several barns and other historic structures are open and generally accessible via short ramped entries that may require some assistance. Some structures are viewed from the exterior only; exhibit panels provide general information. Parking and restroom in the main lot are accessible. An accessible portable toilet is available in the ranch area. Call the park for details.

The Visitor Center is generally accessible via a rear ramp; staff will open gate to get to the ramp.

The Victorian House has a lift and is generally accessible, but only open on an occasional basis.

Before visiting, call the interpretive center at 831-426-0505 for current information on tour accessibility and parking.

Climate/Clothing:
Layered clothing is recommended due to changing weather conditions.

Points of Interest

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Park HQ

The park's offices and maintenance facility. The Visitor Center is located down the Trail Head at the restored Wilder Ranch farm buildings.

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Parking

The parking area is quite large, capable of handling trailers and bus tours. It is located behind and east of the park rangers’ offices. Restrooms are available.

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Trail Head

The Trailhead is located on the eastern side of the parking area at the picket fence.

The trail down to the farm is through the fence. The trail to the bluffs is the track fronting the fence to its seaward end.

Take the Old Cove Landing Trail out toward the coast.

Old Cove Landing Trail is a bluff-top trail that leads to a historic cove that was used from the 1850s to the 1890s by schooners to load lumber. Hikers can spot iron rings, which supported landing chutes, still embedded in the cliffs.

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Park Interpretive Point 1

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Railroad Crossing

Abandoned Union Pacific railroad grade. One of the park's rangers indicated that this right-of-way (ROW) may have been granted over to Santa Cruz County with the intention of using it for tourism.

Cross the tracks and follow the trail. To the east, the valley is part of the Wilder Beach Natural Preserve. It is closed to the public and part of the ongoing effort to restore habitat for local fauna and flora with minimal impact from human interference.

To the west are privately operated croplands.

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Views overlooking the Preserve

Views overlooking the Wilder Beach Natural Preserve.

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Poison Oak

Here you will see some good examples of poison oak.

It's amazing how many people don't know what poison oak looks like. The plants in this area are easy to spot examples.

"Leaflets three, let it be". "Berries white, poisonous sight". In this region the poison oak has medium-sized, lobed dark green leaves. The plant grows as a dense bush. All variants of poison oak have the leaf stems joined at a common point on the stem or vine.

Keep in mind that poison oak is adaptable to many environments and its appearance changes depending on where it is found. It can be found as a thin, vine-like ground-cover and can have larger and lighter green leaves. It can also grow as a colossal vine up the sides of trees.

In all variants, the leaves turn red and drop in the fall. It is commonly found inmuch of California and a good plant to familiarize yourself with.

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Wilder Beach Natural Preserve

Wilder Beach Natural Preserve will be visible for much of this leg.

Keep an eye out for small animals and birds of prey. I ran into several jackrabbits on the trail.

The trail is in generally good-to-outstanding condition(made of packed earth with fine gravel in spots).

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Beach Views

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Bench Overlooking Wilder Beach

An expansive view of Wilder Beach and the watershed.
Interpretive signage with a focus on the bird-life using the wetlands habitat.

Species include: Pigeon Guillemots, Pelagic Several Cormorant Species, Brown Pelicans, Peregrine Falcons, and Plovers.

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Park Interpretive Point 4

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Junction: Side Path to Point

A minor footpath out to a point overlooking Wilder Beach.

Unfortunately the trail is closed part of the way out.

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Side Trail out to Bluff. The path to the outer end is CLOSED.

Take the path as far as the “closed” sign and go no further.

Zoom in on the image and enjoy the sea arch under the trail. The end of the trail out on the point has also fallen away in a collapse.

When done, return to the trail.

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Park Interpretive Point 5

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Side Trail to the Bluffs

A short side trail to a section of the bluffs.

This exposed section of the shoreline has had its topsoils stripped by winter storms. When the tide is out the rocky bench below the bluffs is above water. When the water is clear you can see all the way to the bottom.

A rough bit of coastline

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View from the Bluffs

At the exposed tip of the bluffs with an expansive view back to Wilder Beach.

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Bluff View into a Pair of Inaccessible Coves and Seas Caves.

Rough, narrow little beaches with caves. Break out the sea kayak.

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Junction: Out to the Point.

A side trail out to the point.

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Views Out on the Point

Looking at the secluded coves from the westerly side and west out along the coast.

The rock shelf below is a sunning spot for the local and migratory seals.

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Cliff Erosion

A point where the cliff has eroded into the trail area. It's roped off.

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View Overlooking the Fern Grotto Cove

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Park Interpretive Point 8

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Junction: Trail down to the Fern Grotto and Beach

Take the side trail down the slope to the beach.

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Trail Junction

Head into the draw down to the beach.

Be careful when crossing rocks and muddy surfaces. If it's been raining recently, it can get slippery down toward the bottom at the mouth.

The upper trail is a shortcut returning a bit farther along the bluff trail.

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Fern Grotto and Beach

Surrounded on three sides by bluffs, a secluded and private spot. The first thing you’ll notice will be the stillness. The beach is well sheltered from winds encountered up on the bluffs. The beach is clean..

On this visit there was a strong undertow in the surf out-wash so it might be a good idea to keep all but the strongest swimmers out of the water.

The Grotto:
It lies hidden in the northwest corner of the beach on the alluvium bench in the face of the bluff andis surprisingly deep, having been formed by the erosion of the cliff face. The grotto roof starts high enough to easily walk upright, then tapers gradually to nearly crawling height. The floor is dirt and sand with scattered boulders fallen from the roof, and is dry in places. It's clearly spring fed coming from runoff from inland.

This is a great little place that’s beenused by people for centuries. There's an old fire pit here but please don’t use it-some of the best fern growth would surely get wrecked if it's used.
Ferns grow from the walls and roof in profusion where water seepages occur.

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View Over an Unnamed Cove

A narrow box cove with an offshore rock bench. There is a trail down. Wave action has scoured the sands at the shoreline-a clear sign that it can get rough down there in the winter.

Keep an eye out for seals on the bench.
It looks like a fun place to visit by kayak though it might get a bit turbulent for diving.

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Junction Down and along the Bluffs

The path down to the cove.

More views along the bluff as we head westerly.

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Junction: Trail Down to Sand Plant Beach

Sand Plant Beach is a fairly wide expanse of sand at the opening of a long draw inland with an extensive estuary system.

Only the beach is on park land-everything inland (in the vegetation) is on private property. This beach is an active nesting ground. The dune grasses tend to be delicate so it might be a good idea to keep off them.

The estuary drains across the beach so keep an eye open for waterfowl.

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Views along the Gulch

The trail follows the top edge of the gulch and eventually meets the adjoining park farmlands.

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Junction and Farm Buildings

A road heads westerly down into the gulch where it tapers into a trail. Remember that the gulch is privately owned and not part of the park.

Our path at this point becomes part of the farm driveway, passing the buildings and field hand parking.

Keep an eye open for work vehicles.

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Railroad Grade Junction

Follow the driveway down to the railroad grade.

The track is the next junction that allows for two options.

This walk will turn east and follow the tracks back toward the trail head.

Heading west and following the tracks will access the Ohlone Bluff Trail, Strawberry Beach, 3- and 4-mile beaches, and the westerly portions of the park that include the trail head for the Baldwin and Enchanted Loops.

The railroad grade is an easy walk but the footing can get odd with settled ballast and an uncomfortable tie spacing. The edges of the grade have dense brush blocking views but they're full of nesting and active birds.

Follow the grade until park trail is reached with a return to WP 5.

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Junction, Returning to WP 5

Head back toward the parking lot and trail head. The next junction is just around the corner.

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Junction to the Old County Road and Historical Wilder Ranch compound

This is a return to WP 4. Head inland on the trail toward the Wilder Ranch compound.

On the way active croplands will lie to the east down-slope from the trail and you will get your first views of the Old Victorian farmhouse.

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Junction: Main Path to the Farm

This is the path leading from the parking area to the farm. Head downhill.

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Junction: Old Coast Road

Imagine the drive before HWY 1

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Wilder Ranch Farm Compound

The homes and Dairy Farm center open up-to a welcoming place.

A very active interpretive effort, with all sorts of hands-on activities, happens here. Docents -frequently in costume-give visitors a fantastic opportunity to taste the skills needed to operate a turn of the century dairy farm.

For kids, it's a great opportunity to interact with the farm animals.

The buildings have been maintained and restored to a high degree of excellence and period accuracy.

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Museum, Park Store, and Offices

A 1940s era farm house which houses the Visitor Center has a focus on Santa Cruz farming, dairy, environmental restoration efforts and natural history, and the Ohlone Indians’ way of life.

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Workshop: Machine Shop.

An amazingly complete workshop containing lathes, mills, and essentially most of the tooling needed for any repair of farm equipment.

Of real interest is that the shop is all belt-driven. It was powered by a compact device called the Pelton Water Wheel that was installed in 1889. A small turbine connected to a free falling water supply The turbine was directly connected to the belt and wheel system of the shop.

One of the Wilder kids built a small electrical generator and attached it to the belt system bringing electricity to the farm before the City of Santa Cruz had such a luxury.

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Blacksmith's Shop

A fully functional blacksmith's shop capable of doing all the work required on an operating dairy.

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Equipment Shed

An open sided building packed with antique farming implements, tractors, and heavy farm tools.

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Garage

Behind it to the north is the Corn Crib.

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Bollcoff Adobe

The 1790s era Bolcoff Adobe. Joseph Bolcoff actually doesn't appear in the ranch’s history until 1849-50. From 1791 to 1835, all of the land west of Mission Santa Cruz was called Rancho Arroyo del Matadero (“ranch of the streambed slaughtering ground”), where mission cattle were butchered. In the 1830s, the land was left to the three daughters of Joaquin Castro and became known as Rancho del Refugio. Maria Candida Castro and her husband José Antonio Bolcoff became Rancho Refugio’s first titled owners of record. Bolcoff was a Russian sailor who had jumped ship to become a naturalized Mexican citizen; later he was arrested for smuggling. He built two adobes and one of the area’s first sawmills on the rancho. Bolcoff’s butter and cheese were well known in the Monterrey area

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Victorian House

A 1920s era Victorian House

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Farm House

1860s Meder Home (doubled by the Wilders 1899-1903).

The original farmhouse was built by Moses Meder in the late 1870s. The structure spent decades boarded-up, padlocked and deteriorating. The Meder farmhouse has been restored to its early 1900s appearance, complete with replica furnishings, supplies, and the necessities of early 20th century ranch life.

The house is open to visitors and school groups during the year.

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Horse Barn

This is an intricate structure in regard to its architectural details and craftsmanship. Horses seem to have been of great importance, value, and pride for the Wilder family through the generations.

A great architectural and historical resource on the barn and several additional ranch buildings are in the Historic American Building Survey, Library of Congress.

A quick glance indicates it may be the only such horse barn of its type in the region, and possibly the state, when it was built in the early 1890s with the Queen Anne influence, as seen in shingled pediments.

The building:
Stabled the horses and equipment used for riding, polo, and hitching buggies.

Draft animals were never kept in this building, according to the Wilders.

Upstairs was used for hay storage and, on special occasions, barn dances.

Other Resources
Built in America: Historic American Building Survey, Library of Congress

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Granary

Likely built between 1879-1892 during a period of dairy expansion on the ranch.

This building is on the Historic American Building Survey, Library of Congress.

Other Resources
Built in America: Historic American Building Survey, Library of Congress

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Cow Barn

Behind to the east is the Bull Shed.
Under the trees to the north is the Calf Weaning Shed.
And in line just further north is a Feeding Shed.

The lower floor of the cow barn is open to the public. Today it is used for the display of antique wagons, carriages, and animal drawn field tools. The building is also used to store materials needed in the farming areas of the park.

According to the Historic American Buildins Survey a portion of this barn may date as far back as the late 1840's with some evidence suggesting that it may have been a saw mill. On the lower floor keep an eye open for broad axe and hand-hewn beams.

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Junction

Head back to the parking area retrace the route back to the path to the trail head.

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Trail Head Return

Return up the short hill to the trail head.

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Entrance Kiosk.

Entrance kiosk.

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Park Entrance

Park Entrance:

1401 Old Coast Road
Santa Cruz, CA 95060

Pictures in this guide taken by: Craig_H

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