A Moderniste Morning: Cafe de L'Opera to Palau Guell and Hotel Espana

I wake up early one morning, hungry for chocolate, churros and more architectural sightseeing in Barcelona. Most people head over to the Boqueria for fruit juice and other snacks at the food counters, but we want something more intimate (okay, a comfortable chair away from the hustle and bustle of the food market is also on the agenda).

Cafe de l'Opera immediately comes to mind. The cafe, previously the home of La Mallorquina chocolateria, takes me back to the 1920s. That was when it was renovated in the Moderniste style while preserving the beautiful 19th century mirrors inspired by figures from famous operas. I could easily while away a few hours here with a drink and my dog-eared copy of The Shadow of the Winds by Carlos Ruis Zafon. A sip of the thick, gooey chocolate and a deep breath of the atmospheric wood-panelled cafe.

I am happy with chocolate and churros. My 12 yo son needs more sustenance and fortunately, is satisfied with the selection of sandwiches (ham and cheese doesn't get any better than this!) but I notice on the menu a plate including sausage, eggs, and potato too. In Barcelona, we try to eat a light breakfast because we know that lunch and dinner will be delicious and plentiful.

What more can be said about this Market of Markets? I have chosen a hotel nearby so that we can pop in daily for a fruit juice from one of the many boisterous stalls.

I also NEED to be within walking distance so that I can find my way -- eyes closed -- to Bar Pinotxo, home of a xuxo (cream-filled Catalan pastry) that rivals any other I've ever tasted! A tallat and a xuxo. That is the Catalan breakfast of champions!

As we head back down Las Ramblas, we find ourselves automatically peeking into the building that houses Pasteleria Escriba, our favorite bakery/cafe. It is properly known as Antiga Casa Figueras and was decorated in 1902 by Antoni Ros i Guell, but we usually refer to it simply as Escriba. It always amuses me to sit inside the cafe and count how many visitors stop by to take pictures of the building or the pastries. Do most people realize that the space was designed for a chemist's shop (thus explaining all the small drawers, nooks and crannies)? Have they come to see the floral mosaics, stucco, wrought iron and stained glass? Or has the fame of its current tenant, Antoni Escriba, now surpassed its Moderniste historic value? Are people here to see the crazy cakes and edible jewelry? The poster in the cafe of Senyor Escriba with members of Le Cirque du Soleil is a silent picture that says a million words.

It is almost 10 am now and we speedwalk down Las Ramblas to Palau Guell. This was the city mansion of Count Eusebi Guell, the prominent businessman and patron of Barcelona's most famous architectural son, Antoni Gaudi. The property had been closed for extensive renovation for several years and only re-opened in May 2011. It is one of my favorite masterpieces of Moderniste architecture, or architecture in general. Most visitors confuse it with Parc Guell, which is almost on the outskirts of Barcelona, farther from the center than the Sagrada Familia. Many people wonder: why here? Why in the cramped and old Raval district? Why not in L'Eixample or further out? There is no space for a garden and the proximity of neighboring buildings cuts off natural light. Count Guell had many properties in other parts of Catalunya with more space to extend himself, his large family of seven and his many distinguished guests. He commissioned this house to be close to his elderly father, who insisted on living near La Rambla.

For young Antoni Gaudi, only 34 years old at the time of construction, it was a tremendous challenge to find ways to bring in the light, house a large and prominent family and build underground stables for the horses all within the confines of a relatively small plot of land measuring only 50 x 75 meters (150 x 225 feet). The structure's design was further complicated by the number of floors 8 in total that needed support.

Palau Guell is significant from many aspects. The front facade, with its intricate wrought iron decoration, is stunning. Strong and heavy metal is crafted by a genius' hand into loops and swirls of delicate grey silk ribbon, displaying the Guell family name. The carriageways and Coach House are sumptuously decorated.

From floor to floor, I am awed by the lavish attention to detail. Each visitor to Palau Guell will find a particular place in the mansion that captures his attention. For many, the highlight is the Central Hall, with the chapel and organ console. For others, it might be the vaulted ceiling of the Hall. Younger visitors will delight in the roof terrace, with Gaudi's signature trencadis chimneys of different shapes and colors. I love the bay window room on the main floor. It has a built-in leather bench handcrafted in Cordoba. The shutters on the exterior of the bay windows were designed by Senyor Gaudi to be operated mechanically from within the house; the system seems modern even by today's standards.

The current admission price of 10 euros includes an audioguide, which wisely allows the visitor to choose between a shorter and longer visit. Since the space is rather small, only 185 visitors at a time are admitted.

After Palau Guell, we head back up Las Ramblas to the Hotel Espana. This historic hotel has been newly renovated by a luxury hotel group and converted from a rundown backpackers' hotel into a comfortable, modern hotel with Moderniste elements. I am impatient to see how the restoration has rejuvenated the building, originally decorated in 1902 by Lluis Domenech i Montaner.

In particular, I look for the alabaster chimney designed by Eusebi Arnau (now a focal piece in the Bar Arnau), the marine-themed painting by Ramon Casas (magically transforming the private dining room of Saln de las Sirenas) and the trencadis-tiled garden of Domenech i Montaner (now the Fonda Espana, an upscale restaurant overseen by a 3 star Michelin chef). I am enthralled by the decor and its restoration! It is more beautiful than the pictures displayed on the hotel's website. The skylight above Las Sirenas draws natural light into the area and makes the painting and the colorful tiles shimmer. No wonder its orginal name was La Pecera (the Fishbowl)!

Only one thing could top our Moderniste morning and that is lunch at the Fonda Espana. I choose the 25 euro menu del dia which includes 3 courses, wine and tax. A steal! The menu too is an interesting restoration of traditional Catalan dishes. Gigi decides to test the kitchen by ordering a la carte. He has canelons (the Catalan version of the Italian dish but prepared with a creamy bechamel), gambas de Palamos and apple tart. The giant prawns are very fresh and prepared simply to let the ingredients shine on their own. We usually share our food but all I get are the heads.