Historical Villages, Portugal

Beira Interior, Portugal
 (1 vote, 1 review)
Portugal’s historic villages are among the country’s best kept secrets.

Built from granite and schist, and located in the heart of the country, they have witnessed over 900 years of Portuguese history. But while the villages are amazingly peaceful places to visit, they have not always been so tranquil.

In the past these villages, perched high on hilltops, played a crucial role in protecting the surrounding lands. Their vantage point made it almost impossible for would-be invaders to approach undetected. It was a hugely effective form of defence. Over the centuries, Moors and Christians, Spaniards and Portuguese, have all tried to take the villages for themselves.

And as a result each village has its own spell-binding tale to tell. One such example is the village of Almeida, whose formidable fortress capitulated to the French in the 19th century after heroically resisting for 17 days.

Whether you want to experience Portugal’s breath-taking landscapes, its historic fortresses, or the warmth of its people, the villages offer it all.
Linhares da Beira
With its green pastures, plentiful water and protective mountains, it’s no wonder that the Lusitanians, the Iberian tribe from whom the Portuguese are descended, chose this area in which to live.

The Visigoths and later the Moors settled here, knowing that they could watch over the whole of the surrounding area. Linhares became part of Portugal in the time of D. Afonso Henriques, who granted its first charter in 1169. Despite the town’s strategic position, on a moonlit night in the year 1189, forces from León and Castile invaded the region in preparation for an attack on the castle of Celorico. Linhares rushed to its defence and the enemy army, seeing its rearguard surrounded, took flight.
On the village’s coat of arms you’ll find an engraving of a crescent and five stars, in remembrance of that night of the full moon long ago.

Be sure to visit the igreja matriz (parish church), which is of Romanesque origin. Inside there are three valuable paintings by the great Portuguese master Vasco Fernandes (Grão Vasco).

Also note the small stone dais in the town, a unique example of a medieval forum from which community decisions were announced to the populace.

The altitude and climate make this historical village the ideal venue for paragliding too, with the Open Championship held every year in August.
Castelo Mendo
In 1281 king D. Dinis granted a Market Charter to the village, ordering that a market should be held three times a year. This was the first market to take place regularly in the kingdom of Portugal, and on entering the market shed, you can almost hear the voices of those buying and selling, an activity as old as the world itself.

The village is named after the first commander of the fort, D. Mendo Mendes, appointed by D. Dinis in the 14th century. It is possible to make out a stone sculpture on one of the walls of the old prison, which according to popular tradition represents Mendo, and on another house nearby the representation of Menda.
Piodão
The village of Piodão lies on a curve in the road, like a little crib nestling at the foot of a hill.

The delightful, orderly appearance of the houses and streets, all built of schist, is interrupted by the deep blue of the windows and doors of some of the houses. This use of colour is said to originate from the fact that the one shop in the village stocked only blue paint, and due to the isolation it was not easy to travel elsewhere.

It was also the isolation that preserved the historic characteristics of Piodão as we see them today.
The charming, whitewashed parish church dedicated to N.S. da Conceição, with its unusual cylindrical buttresses, stands out among the small two-storey houses. The villagers built it with their own money and gold in the early nineteenth century.

Due to its hidden position at the foot of the mountains, Piodão also used to be a haven for fugitives from justice. One of the murderers of D. Inês de Castro, who had managed to flee the wrath of D. Pedro, is said to have hidden here.
Castelo Novo
The village of Castelo Novo takes its name from its 12th century castle, which was severely damaged by the earthquake of 1755. It was called ‘new’ due to the existence of another abandoned fort nearby, a structure not deemed adequate for military defence.

The medieval town hall in the Largo da Bica has various curious features, in particular a fine 18th century baroque fountain, topped with king D. João V’s coat of arms.
Monsanto
In the second century BC the settlement is said to have resisted a Roman siege for seven years. This feat is the origin of the Festival of the Crosses, which the village celebrates on May 3rd every year.

In the 12th century, D. Afonso Henriques donated the settlement (which had been captured from the Moors) to the Order of the Templars, whose Master in Portugal, Gualdim Pais, ordered the castle to be rebuilt. The village, which is spread over the hillside, boasts one of the most interesting landscapes in Portugal. Granite boulders are used as walls for the houses, and in some cases roofs consist of a single block of stone - which is why the houses here are said to have "only one tile".

Added interest is provided by several large, emblazoned houses, Manueline doorways and the house where the doctor and author Fernando Namora lived, practised and found inspiration for his novel ‘Fragments of a Doctor’s Life’.
Those who feel energetic enough to make the climb up to the castle are rewarded with one of the most stunning views in the region. The bold knights of the Christian Reconquest were buried in hollowed out rocks in this stronghold.

However, perhaps the most important place in the village is Lucan’s Tower. Dating back to the 14th century, the tower is crowned with a silver cockerel, a trophy awarded to Monsanto in a competition in 1938 in which it was judged to be the most Portuguese village in Portugal.
Sortelha
Crowned by a castle standing on a formidable rocky outcrop, Sortelha preserves its medieval features in the architecture of its rustic granite houses.

Sortelha used to be part of the important defensive line of frontier castles, mostly erected or rebuilt on ‘castro’ sites of the ancient Iberian civilisations. Its name is derived from the configuration of the land in rugged crags encircling the village in the shape of a ring (sortija, in Spanish).

The castle entrance is through a Gothic doorway, above which there is a balcony (Varanda de Pilatos) with apertures through which the medieval guards would hurl all kinds of missiles, such as boiling oil, at their attackers. Notice also the fine pillory topped by the armillary sphere, the symbol of D.
Manuel I, and the building that used to be the Council Hall, from the same period. In another doorpost, facing west, the two slits in the stone represent metric measures (the larger one is a vara and the smaller one a côvado), used by medieval tradesmen for their calculations.

The charm of this village lies in its medieval atmosphere. All the houses, made of granite and mostly one-storey, are built on rock and blend into the topography of the terrain.
Marialva
The village has ancient origins. It was inhabited as early as the 6th century BC by the Aravi tribe, who were followed by the Romans, Suevi and Arabs. The reason it was such a prized location becomes clear as soon as you arrive here and take in its location.

In 1063 Ferdinand the Great, King of León, captured the village and converted it to Christianity, giving it the name of Malva, later Marialva. But it is also said that King D. Afonso II of Portugal donated it in 1217 to D. Maria Alva, one of his lovers, and that this is the true origin of the name.

Marialva is also the old pilgrims’ way and still celebrates the annual holiday of St James the Apostle on 25th July.
As you walk through the village, ancient streets flanked by walls and Gothic doorways lead to a small square with a distinctly medieval atmosphere. This is the site of the 15th century granite pillory, the tribunal and the former prison.

The 16th century parish church, with a Manueline doorway, is dedicated to Santiago (St James).

And, if you still have enough energy, continue up the hill to the stalwart castle, one of the largest in the region.
Almeida
Classified as a historical village, Almeida is a fortified town that, when seen from the air, has all the appearance of a 12-pointed star, this being the number of bastions and ravelins enclosing a space with a perimeter of 2500 metres. This remarkable fortress was built in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, around a mediaeval castle, in what amounted to a very important place for the strategic defence of the region, since it was situated on a plateau roughly 12 km from the border with Spain, as defined by the Treaty of Alcanices in 1297, which was the date when Almeida first became Portuguese.

Almeida is one of the finest examples of a ramparted fortification still standing in Portugal, of which the most typical features were the ashlar masonry walls surrounded by a vast moat that made it difficult for invaders to enter, the strategically placed bastions that made it possible to keep a close watch over the whole of the surrounding territory, the three arched gateways in the form of a tunnel, the false doors designed to fool invaders, and the underground casemates equipped with everything that was necessary for survival in the event of war and which could be used as a bunker to provide shelter for the whole of the local population.

Over the centuries, Almeida was the site of a number of hard-fought struggles, particularly during the seventeenth-century War of Restoration (when the Spanish were definitively removed from the Portuguese throne) and the French invasions in the nineteenth century, when the town was laid siege to by Napoleon's troops for a long period, its castle and part of its walls being seriously damaged by the explosion of an enormous quantity of gunpowder kept in the ammunition stores, which led to its eventual surrender.

Inside the fortress walls, it is worth taking some time to admire the harmoniously built houses, as well as the numerous religious and civil buildings scattered around the narrow streets and helping to preserve the atmosphere of earlier times.
Castelo Rodrigo
From its lofty hilltop position, the small village of Castelo Rodrigo looks down over the plateau stretching eastwards to Spain and northwards to the deep valley of the River Douro. According to tradition, it was founded by Alfonso IX of León, in order to be given to Count Rodrigo Gonzalez de Girón, who repopulated it and gave it its name. With the Treaty of Alcanices, signed in 1297 by D. Dinis, poet and king of Portugal, it came into the possession of the Portuguese crown.

Castelo Rodrigo still preserves scars left by the constant disputes over the territory. The first such episode took place less than a hundred years after its integration into the kingdom of Portugal, during the dynastic crisis of 1383-1385. D. Beatriz, the only daughter of D. Fernando of Portugal, was married to the king of Castile. With her accession to the throne on the death of her father, Portugal was set to lose its independence in favour of Castile. Castelo Rodrigo sided with D. Beatriz, but D. João, the Master of Avis, defeated the Castilians at the Battle of Aljubarrota, in 1385, and as a result was crowned king of Portugal, taking the name of D. João I. As a reprisal for the lords of Castelo Rodrigo having sided with Castile, the new king ordered that the shield and the coat of arms of Portugal should always be displayed upside down on the town´s coat of arms.

Later, in the 16th century, when Philip II of Spain annexed the Portuguese Crown, the Governor Cristóvão de Mora became the defender of the cause of Castile and suffered from the revenge of the local population, who set fire to his enormous palace on 10 December 1640, as soon as they received the news of the Restoration of Portugal (which took place on 1 December). The aftermath of this historic event was the ruins that can still be seen on the top of the hill next to the castle.

In the olden days, it also stood on the route taken by the pilgrims travelling to Santiago de Compostela. Legend has it that none other than St. Francis of Assisi spent the night here on his pilgrimage to the tomb of St. James.

Now a quiet peaceful village, Castelo Rodrigo is worth visiting for its past glories, the beauty and freshness of its location, the houses contained within its walls, its Manueline pillory and also the somewhat touching statue of Santiago Matamouros housed in the igreja do Reclamador.
Idanha-a-Velha
From its lofty hilltop position, the small village of Castelo Rodrigo looks down over the plateau stretching eastwards to Spain and northwards to the deep valley of the River Douro. According to tradition, it was founded by Alfonso IX of León, in order to be given to Count Rodrigo Gonzalez de Girón, who repopulated it and gave it its name. With the Treaty of Alcanices, signed in 1297 by D. Dinis, poet and king of Portugal, it came into the possession of the Portuguese crown.

Castelo Rodrigo still preserves scars left by the constant disputes over the territory. The first such episode took place less than a hundred years after its integration into the kingdom of Portugal, during the dynastic crisis of 1383-1385. D. Beatriz, the only daughter of D. Fernando of Portugal, was married to the king of Castile. With her accession to the throne on the death of her father, Portugal was set to lose its independence in favour of Castile. Castelo Rodrigo sided with D. Beatriz, but D. João, the Master of Avis, defeated the Castilians at the Battle of Aljubarrota, in 1385, and as a result was crowned king of Portugal, taking the name of D. João I. As a reprisal for the lords of Castelo Rodrigo having sided with Castile, the new king ordered that the shield and the coat of arms of Portugal should always be displayed upside down on the town´s coat of arms.

Later, in the 16th century, when Philip II of Spain annexed the Portuguese Crown, the Governor Cristóvão de Mora became the defender of the cause of Castile and suffered from the revenge of the local population, who set fire to his enormous palace on 10 December 1640, as soon as they received the news of the Restoration of Portugal (which took place on 1 December). The aftermath of this historic event was the ruins that can still be seen on the top of the hill next to the castle.

Successive settlements of the region by different peoples have left Idanha-a-Velha with a most valuable historical heritage.

Anyone visiting the modest village to be found here nowadays and observing its peaceful pace of life will have difficulty imagining that this was once the site of the ancient and prosperous Roman town of Civitas Igaeditanorum, which was situated on the great Iberian road linking Emerita (Mérida) to Braccara (Braga). At Egitânia, the Episcopal see in the time of the Visigoths (6-7th century), gold coins were minted for almost all the Visigothic kings, from Recaredo to Rodrigo; later on, the Muslim Idânia (8-12th century) grew to be a large and prosperous city, almost as rich as Lisbon.

After this came the battles between Christians and Muslims in the first century of Portuguese nationhood, when D. Afonso Henriques gave the city to the Order of the Knights Templar in order for it to be repopulated. His son, D. Sancho I, gave Idanha its first charter in 1229, recognising its strategic importance.

Over time, with a shift occurring in the major military and strategic axes, the city gradually diminished in size. Yet it has never lost its atmosphere from the past, seeming more like an open museum for the culturally-minded tourists, who will find here a system of signs clearly marking their itinerary.
Community Trips
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MyGR22: Route of the Historical Villages (4/7)
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The GR22 route (Rota das Aldeias Históricas) connects 10 historical Portuguese villages and many other interesting villages in between. This route is situated in the Portuguese regions known as Beiras. The Historical Villages project started in1991, including the following villages: Marialva, Castelo Rodrigo, Almeida, Castelo Mendo, Sortelha, Monsanto, Idanha-a-Velha, Castelo Novo, Piodão and Linhares da Beira. Later, in 2003, also Belmonte and Trancoso were included in this classification. Castelo Bom, near Castelo...
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Reviews
Kumbaiala
A visit to the Historicall Villages and the Beiras region in Portugal is a must do for all national and foreign visitors that love cultural heritage, unspoiled nature, off the beaten track trips and great food.

The regions has many ways for being explored: hiking, off-road and mtb cycling, car or jeep. Paragliding and canoying are also possible options. There are also a wide range of rural tourism.

Visited on Apr 23, 2011

by Kumbaiala on Aug 26, 2011

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What people are saying...

perdidas, Monsanto, Escalos de Baixo, Castelo Branco, Serra da Estrela, Beira Baixa, Almeida, geopark, Folgosinho, Casqueiro, Chão da Vã, Mata, GR22, Manteigas, Torre, portugal, Rota da castanha e do castanheiro, historical villages, Monte de S. Martinho, Fundão

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